JOURNAL 

OF  A 

TRIP  TO  CALIFORNIA 

Across  the  Continent 

From  Weston,  Mo.,  to  Weber  Creek,  Cal 

In  the  Summer  of  1850 

By  Q  W.  SMITH 

Edited  with  an  Introduction  and  Notes, 
By 

I 

R.  W.  G.  VAIL 

Librarian  of 
The  Minnesota  Historical  Society 


THEiCADMUS  BOOK  SHOP 
NEW  YORK 


r  j  3  a 
.S'4-  8 

Bancroft  Library 


Press 

STANDARD  BOOK  COMPANY 
Manchester.  N.  H. 


INTRODUCTION. 

Several  years  ago  I  had  the  good  fortune  to  find, 
in  the  lumber  and  rubbish  of  a  storeroom,  this  lit- 
tle journal.  A  small  leather-backed  notebook,  it 
had  lain  unnoticed  and  forgotten  for  more  than 
half  a  century  in  the  author's  old  homestead. 

The  original  manuscript  is  written  in  a  4  by  6- 
inch  notebook,  bound  in  boards.  It  contains  180 
pages  of  text,  with  pressed  western  flowers  and 
plants  pasted  on  the  five  fly-leaves  at  the  end. 

Mr.  William  Smith,  our  author's  father,  came 
from  Gloucestershire,  England,  in  1831  and  settled 
on  a  farm  (now  owned  by  his  grandson,  George 
Smith)  just  west  of  the  village  of  Victor,  N.  Y. 
For  several  years  Mr.  Smith's  sons,  James  and 
Charles  W.,  both  helped  him  on  the  farm,  but 
eventually  the  latter  decided  to  become  a  printer 
and  so  obtained  a  position  in  the  neighboring  vil- 
lage of  Canandaigua. 

At  the  time  of  the  discovery  of  gold  in  Cali- 
fornia, Mr.  C.  W.  Smith*  had  been  for  several 
years  on  the  staff  of  the  Ontario  Messenger,  which 
perhaps  accounts  for  the  interesting  and  newsy 
style  in  which  his  journal  is  written.  Certain  it  is 
that  he  showed  more  than  usual  ability  and  train- 
ing in  narrating  the  experiences  of  the  overland 
journey  and  especially  in  painting  a  vivid  picture 

*A  portrait  of  the  author,  painted  in  East  Bloomfield,  N.  Y.,  is  still 
owned  by  the  family  in  Victor. — ED. 


4:  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

of  the  prairies,  the  rivers  and  mountains,  the  rocks 
and  the  flowers. 

And  so  the  Spring  of  1850  found  Mr.  Smith 
leaving  his  place  in  the  composing  room  at  Can- 
andaigua  and,  after  a  brief  farewell  visit  with  his 
family  in  Victor,  he  proceeded  to  Centreville,  Indi- 
ana, from  which  town  he  dated  the  first  entry  of 
his  narrative.  The  journal  itself  tells  the  rest  of 
the  story,  and  I  am  sure  that  the  student  of  western 
history  will  find  it  one  of  the  most  valuable  of  the 
contemporary  journals  of  the  Forty-Niners  and 
the  Overland  Trail. 

R.  W.  G.  VAIL. 

The  Minnesota  Historical  Society,  March  20,  1920. 


LETTEB  TO   MOTHER. 

April  10,  1853. 
DEAR  MOTHEB: 

I  have  concluded  to  send  you  my  journal,  not  because  I 
think  it  contains  anything  of  great  interest,  but  because  I  know 
you  will  take  it  as  an  evidence  that  I  have  not  forgotten  my 
Mother. 

Nancy  and  I  have  been  married  two  years  today,  and 
through  that  time  have  walked  peacefully  along  the  path  of 
life  together,  a  path  on  which  little  Alice  now  presses  her  tiny 
feet  and,  holding  a  little  hand  in  each  of  ours,  will  make  our 
union  more  complete.  It  is  now  nearly  six  years  since  I  left 
home,  a  home  which  I  then  expected  to  see  again  in  a  few 
months,  and  would  have  seen  had  I  been  able  to  return  in  a 
better  condition  than  when  I  left  it,  lor  it  is  always  expected 
that  when  a  young  man  goes  out  upon  the  world,  it  is  to  rise 
and  prosper,  and  not  return  in  rags.  And  if  it  was  not  for  that 
ambitious  feeling  that  forbids  there  are  now  thousands  in  Cali- 
fornia and  Oregon,  who  would  instantly  start  for  those  good 
old  homes  on  the  other  side  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  In  all  my 
wonder  ings  I  have  been  singularly  fortunate,  always  having 
my  health,  and  never  meeting  with  those  accidents  which  are 
common  to  persons  in  an  unsettled  condition.  In  regard  to  the 
good  things  of  this  world,  I  have  reason  to  be  grateful,  rather 
however  for  what  we  expect,  than  what  we  now  enjoy,  for  our 
640  acres  of  land  are  lying  in  an  unproductive  state,  and 
Nancy's  money  is  all  in  the  States,  excepting  $200,  which  were 
sent  across  the  plains. 

The  spring  here  opens  early  this,  year,  a  full  month  in  ad- 
vance of  last.  The  hillsides  are  covered  with  good  fresh  grass 
and  many  places  with  a  variety  of  flowers,  some  of  which  would 
adorn  a  garden. 

The  pony  that  we  called  "Uncle  Ned"  is  gone  "where  the 
good  ponies  go" — to  the  mines.  I  got  a  mare  and  $15  for  it, 
but  after  it  had  run  out  a  few  weeks,  and  improved,  it  became 


6  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

so  wild  that  I  could  not  catch  it,  and  I  gave  a  man  $2.00  to 
catch  her  for  me.  But  I  have  traded  again,  and  this  time  I 
have  got  one  that  Nancy  can  ride,  and  could  be  sold  for  $100. 

We  have  got  but  one  cow  at  home,  and  one  in  the  Willam- 
mette  Valley,  and  $75  there  for  the  purpose  of  buying  another 
cow. 

Alice  is  growing  fast,  and  can  stand  by  holding  to  a  chair. 
Nancy  is  going  to  put  a  lock  (a  small  lock  I  guess)  of  her  hair 
in  this  book.  She  has  two  teeth  and  Nancy  says  she  can  bite. 

I  understand  that  Jesse  Dryer  is  here,  with  Rawson.  * 
He  sent  word  to  me  that  you  had  sent  a  box  and  that  it  was 
in  his  trunk  at  Marysville  and  would  be  brought  to  this  valley 
as  soon  as  there  was  an  opportunity.  Marysville  is  a  place  in 
the  Willammette,  about  100  miles  from  here.  The  country  is 
beginning  to  be  pretty  well  settled  up  in  this  quarter,  some  new 
neighbors  having  lately  come  in.  Our  claim  is  joined  on  three 
sides  by  settlers. 

There  is  a  new  postoffice  nearer  than  Winchester,  to  which 
I  would  like  you  to  direct  hereafter  .  Name,  Deer  Creek,  Doug- 
lass County. 

I  (have  not  received  a  letter  from  Sarah  yet.  I  will  still 
look  for  it.  1  received  a  letter  from  John.  I  will  send  an 
answer  in  a  short  time. 

April  17.  I  have  just  received  a  letter  from  Nancy's  folks 
in  relation  to  her  property,  which  we  will  probably  get  this  fall. 
I  start  for  the  Willammette  next  Wednesday,  and  will  be  gone 
about  15  days,  I  shall  bring  a  cow  with  me,  perhaps  two.  I 
shall  take  this  book  with  me  and  mail  it  in  the  Willammette. 
While  I  am  gone  Nancy  wil  have  to  stay  alone,  excepting  one 
of  the  neighbors  little  girls  .  Cattle  have  rose  to  an  enormous 
price  lately,  good  oxen  will  sell  for  $300.00  per  yoke. 

I  intend  when  I  am  able  to  buy  a  goo'd  horse  team,  and 
then  I  can  go  somewhere  in  some  reasonable  time,  and  with 
pleasure.  Nancy  will  send  some  specimens  of  wild  flowers  be- 
tween the  leaves  of  this  book. 

C.  W.  SMITH. 


*Nornian  Raw&on  of  Victor,  N.  Y.,  uncle  of  Mrs.  Herman  Boughton,  who 
now  owns  the  pistol  that  he  carried  across  the  plains.  Dryer  was  also 
from  Victor. — EDITOR. 


JOURNAL  OF  A  TRIP  TO 
CALIFORNIA 


"Ever  changing  from  scene  to  scene,  deriving  new  interest 
from  them  all,  and  learning  each  day  something  more  of  the 
many  wonders  of  nature." — The  Author. 


Journal  of  a  Trip  to  California 

In  the  Spring  of  1850  the  startling  reports  from 
California  in  relation  to  the  discoveries  of  gold  had 
been  generally  confirmed  and  sustained  by  such  a 
vast  number  of  letters  that  most  men  were  satis- 
fied of  their  truth. 

Strongly  impressed  with  the  general  correctness 
of  reports  from  the  modern  El  Dorado,  I  at  length 
determined  to  wend  my  way  in  that  direction,  and 
having  made  the  necessary  arrangements,  I  left 
Centreville,  Ind.,  on  the  second  of  April,  1850.  On 
the  same  day  a  company  of  about  twelve  men  left 
the  same  place  and  about  the  same  number  left 
Richmond,  Ind.,  bound  for  the  same  destination. 

The  Spring  of  1850  was  unusually  backward,  in 
consequence  of  which  many  were  compelled  to 
spend  many  days  at  the  various  starting  places  on 
the  frontier. 

APRIL  4,  1850. 

I  make  my  first  note  at  Cincinnati,  Ohio,  on 
board  the  Cambria  April  4,  1850.  Though  the 
Spring  is  backward,  the  weather  has  been  fine  for 
a  few  days  past ;  some  parts  have  begun  to  assume 
a  green  appearance,  and  the  roads  from  this  place 
were  quite  good. 

9 


10  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

I  have  engaged  passage  on  the  Cambria  for  St. 
Louis,  and  am  now  impatient  to  be  off.  The  boat 
was  to  start  at  4  o'clock  p.  M.,  but  we  are  yet  here. 
It  is  a  very  common  practice  of  deceiving  travelers 
as  to  the  time  of  the  departure  of  boats.  It  should 
be  frowned  down  by  the  traveling  public,  as  it 
causes  great  perplexity  and  loss  of  time,  etc.  Pas- 
sengers are  still  coming  on  board.  Most  of  them 
are  bound  for  California.  A  large  number  of 
mules  and  horses  are  on  deck.  Some  of  them  are 
inferior  animals,  especially  the  mules.  The  price 
of  mules  and  horses  is  represented  as  being  quite 
high  at  St.  Joseph  and  Independence.  Good  wag- 
oris  can  be  purchased  here  for  $75.00,  and  many 
are  being  taken  for  the  emigrating  service.  A 
company  has  been  organized  here,  offering  to  carry 
passengers  to  the  gold  region  for  $r6o,  each  pas- 
senger to  do  his  equal  share  of  the  necessary  labor 
upon  the  road. 

APRIL  5,  1850. 

Ohio  River,  April  5,  1850.  We  left  Cincinnati 
yesterday  afternoon  about  5  o'clock,  with  a  large 
number  of  passengers  on  board.  Reached  Madi- 
son last  night  and  laid  to  till  morning.  We  are 
now  riding  along  at  a  fine  rate.  The  clouds  that 
hung  above  us  all  the  morning  are  partly  cleared 
away,  and  the  warm  sun  shining  through  at  inter- 
vals, making  it  rather  pleasant  and  it  would  be 
really  so,  were  it  not  for  a  cold  breeze  that  is  now 
up.  The  trees  upon  the  banks  of  the  river  begin 


DOWN  THE  OHIO.  11 

to  assume  the  appearance  of  spring,  putting  forth 
their  fresh  buds  and  lending  to  the  prospect  some 
degree  of  cheerfulness.  The  banks  of  the  river 
are  here  high  and  abrupt,  and  well  timbered, 
though  the  general  prospect  is  rather  monotonous. 

SUNDAY,  APRIL  7. 

I  made  no  note  of  yesterday,  having  seen  noth- 
ing of  particular  interest.  The  river  banks  become 
lower  as  we  descend.  Today  I  have  seen  fruit 
trees  in  blossom.  Our  passage  is  rather  disagree- 
able— too  cool  to  be  agreeable  on  deck,  from  which 
the  passenger  wishes  to  view  the  shores  of  the 
river.  I  rose  early  this  morning  and  went  on  deck, 
as  usual.  It  was  early  dawn,  so  early  that  I  would 
not  have  thought  it  morning  were  it  not  for  a 
golden  streak  in  the  east,  glowing  beneath  a  heavy 
mass  of  dark  clouds.  We  were  just  then  at  an 
interesting  point,  passing  round  the  point  from  the 
Ohio  into  the  mighty  Mississippi,  and  had  already 
begun  to  stem  its  muddy  current  when  I  came  on 
deck.  I  took  a  long  look  down  between  her  banks, 
for  the  purpose  of  impressing  upon  my  memory  a 
picture  which  I  might  unveil  in  the  future.  The 
flush  of  crimson  dawn-light  was  reflected  upon  the 
ripples  that  came  chasing  in  our  wake. 

Now  and  then  upon  the  shore  the  dark  outlines 
of  a  log  cabin  (the  wood-chopper's  home)  met  the 
eye.  The  banks,  are  low  and  marshy,  and  mostly 
covered  with  underbrush,  such  as  cottonwood,  etc. 
The  river  is  some  two  miles  wide  here  (fifteen 


12  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio)  and  divided  by 
numerous  islands  of  all  sizes — from  an  acre  to  sev- 
eral miles  in  length.  To  keep  the  channel,  we  have 
to  shift  constantly  from  one  side  of  the  river  to  the 
other;  sometimes  I  could  throw  a  stone  to  the 
shore.  This  is  a  quiet,  calm  Sabbath  morning,  the 
sun  shining  out  brightly,  with  a  cool  breeze  float- 
ing in  from  the  west.  But  the  iron  giant  beneath 
us  knows  no  Sabbath,  no  more  than  those  who  di- 
rect her  powerful  arms,  and  keeps  working  on, 
tireless  and  undismayed;  but  -like  a  war  horse, 
champing  the  bit,  he  is  a  dangerous  slave,  breath- 
ing fire  and  smoke  and  shaking  his  person  by  his 
gigantic  struggles.  To  use  a  strong  poetical  figure,, 
he  seems  to  say: 

"Bind  me  down  with  your  iron  bands, 
Make  sure  of  your  curb  and  rein, 
For  I  scorn  the  strength  of  your  puny  hands 
As  the  lion  scorns  a  chain." 

Tho  California-bound  passengers  on  board  are 
a  hardy-looking  class  of  men,  say  but  little  about 
the  gold,  and  are  probably  prepared  to  meet  the 
dangers  and  hardships  of  the  journey. 

APRIL  8. 

The  banks  of  the  Mississippi  begin  to  assume  a 
more  cheerful  aspect,  the  banks  are  higher  and  are 
partly  covered  with  cedar  bushes  and  other  ever- 
green shrubbery.  We  arrived  at  St.  Louis  at 
about  9  o'clock  this  morning,  and  immediately  took 


UP  THE  MISSOURI.  13 

passage  upon  "The  Pride  of  the  West"  for  St. 
Joseph.  We  expect  to  be  about  a  week  in  going 
there,  longer  than  it  would  take  to  travel  the  same 
distance  on  the  Ohio,  owing  to  the  numerous  ob- 
structions in  the  river.  The  signs  of  an  immense 
emigration  become  more  apparent  as  we  approach 
the  starting  points.  Every  boat  is  crowded  with 
passengers,  horses,  wagons  and  everything  else 
necessary  for  an  outfit  preparatory  to  crossing  the 
continent. 

At  St.  Louis  business  appears  quite  brisk  at 
present.  The  levee  is  crowded  with  articles  of 
trade.  But  St.  Louis,  like  Louisville,  bears  the 
mark  cf  slavery  in  their  population  and  the  appear- 
ance of  local  business;  their  suburbs,  instead  of 
being  occupied  by  the  beautiful  little  dwellings  of 
artisans,  look  ruinous  and  uninteresting. 

Well,  we  are  under  way  again,  St.  Louis  is  fad- 
ing away  in  the  twilight  and  blending  with  the 
distant  hills.  Tomorrow  morning  I  expect  to  look 
upon  the  waters  of  the  Missouri. 

APRIL  9. 

We  entered  the  Missouri  this  morning  at  sunrise 
and  are  now  making  but  slow  progress  in  conse- 
quence of  the  numerous  obstructions  in  the  stream, 
such  as  sawyers,  sand  bars,  etc.  We  are  com- 
pelled to  lie  up  at  shore  at  nigh.  The  weather  is 
decidedly  cool  today,  and  we  have  been  favored 
with  a  few  flakes  of  snow.  The  soil  some  sixty 
miles  above  St.  Louis  looks  productive,  is  suffi- 


14  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

ciently  high  for  agricultural  purposes  and  is  well 
timbered.  At  St.  Louis  I  saw  a  few  Indians,  be- 
longing to  some  of  the  western  tribes.  They  were 
dressed  in  the  highest  style  of  their  fashion,  their 
faces  painted  and  highly  colored  with  red  powder. 
Their  hair  is  also  dyed  or  powdered  red  after  the 
same  manner  as  their  faces.  They  were  quite  curi- 
ous specimens  of  humanity  to  those  unacquainted 
with  Indian  fashions.  We  have  but  very  few  lady 
passengers. 

APRIL  10. 

Weather  clear  and  cold.  We  have  just  passed 
Jefferson  City,  the  capital  of  Missouri.  It  is  but  a 
small  place  and  unimportant,  only  as  being  the 
capital.  The  state  house  is  a  respectable  two-story 
stone  building  situated  upon  a  bluff  near  the  river, 
fronting  the  east.  There  is  also  a  state  prison 
here,  inclosed  by  a  high  stone  wall.  We  have  seen 
some  specimens  of  wild  game  on  the  river,  such  as 
geese,  ducks,  turkeys,  etc.  Speaking  of  game  re- 
minds me  of  gaming,  a  business  that  is  very  ex- 
tensively followed  on  the  river  steamers.  About 
one  third  of  the  passengers  on  board  are  at  this 
moment  engaged  in  that  laudable  profession — 
many  of  them  play  for  money.  This  class  is  bound 
for  California  and  pass  the  dimes  freely. 

APRIL  13. 

I  have  neglected  my  journal  a  little  on  account 
of  sickness.  The  boat  is  anything  but  agreeable  to 


SLOW  HEADWAY.  15 

a  person  in  good  health,  but  to  a  sick  man  it  is  al- 
most insupportable.  When  I  awoke  yesterday 
morning,  I  was  very  much  oppressed  with  heat, 
and  supposed  the  weather  had  moderated  in  the 
night.  I  got  up  and  went  on  deck,  and  fancied 
that  the  weather  was  very  mild,  but  instead  of  this, 
I  suppose  the  difference  was  in  myself,  having  con- 
tracted a  slight  fever  in  the  night.  In  cooling 
myself  I  caught  a  severe  cold,  and  soon  began  to 
feel  very  chilly.  I  sat  by  a  hot  stove,  wrapped  r 
my  overcoat,  but  it  was  impossible  to  get  warm,  so 
I  sat  shivering  all  day.  Owing  to  the  crowded 
state  of  the  boat,  I  had  not  got  a  berth  when  I  took 
passage,  but  slept  upon  the  cabin  floor,  with  about 
fifty  others.  I  again  attempted  to  get  a  berth,  but 
could  not,  so  I  was  compelled  to  "chew  the  cud  of 
sweet  and  bitter  fancy"  alone.  Today  I  succeeded 
in  getting  a  berth  of  one  of  the  passengers,  in  which 
I  took  a  refreshing  sleep,  took  some  quinine,  and 
now  begin  to  feel  better.  I  also  had  a  very  severe 
pain  in  my  side,  but  I  am  getting  better  of  that, 
too.  As  I  have  been  close  by  the  stove  for  a  day 
or  two  past,  I  can  say  but  little  about  the  country 
through  which  T  have  passed.  Yet  I  know  we  have 
ran  upon  numerous  sand  bars,  backed  out  and 
found  other  channels;  stopped  for  wood  and  pas- 
sengers, and  I  felt  the  jarring  of  the  machinery  be- 
neath me.  A  large  number  of  the  passengers  on 
board  are  more  or  less  indisposed,  so  I  have  not 
suffered  more  than  many  others.  We  have  passed 
several  respectable  towns  in  coming  up,  the  princi- 


16  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

pal  of  which  are  Boonville,  Lexington  and  Inde- 
pendence. The  latter  is  some  four  miles  from  the 
river.  We  expect  to  reach  St.  Joseph  tomorrow. 
There  is  a  report  abroad  that  the  cholera  prevails 
at  St.  Joseph,  and  some  of  our  passengers  are  leav- 
ing the  boat  to  avoid  it.  It  is  also  said  to  prevail 
at  other  towns  on  the  river.  I  shall  not  deviate 
from  my  course  on  that  account.  If  it  is  my  fate 
to  be  stricken  down  at  this  time,  I  shall  try  to 
meet  my  fate  like  a  Christian.  But  I  have  hope 
and  a  strong  belief  that — 

"There's  a  divinity  that  shapes  our  ends 
Rough  hew  them  how  we  will." 

APRIL  1 8. 

Weston,  Missouri,  April  18.  We  arrived  here 
last  Sunday  morning,  stopped,  because  our  boat 
being  a  large  one,  we  could  not  go  up  the  river  in 
her  further.  We  have  since  concluded  that  Wes- 
ton is  as  good  a  starting-place  as  any  on  the  Mis- 
souri, and  have  determined  to  fit  out  here  for  the 
journey,  and  we  have  already  engaged  partners  in 
a  wagon,  looked  at  cattle,  provisions,  etc. 

APRIL  22. 

Our  arrangements  are  completed,  and  we  intend 
to  cross  the  river  tomorrow  and  join  a  company  as 
soon  as  possible.  The  weather  is  becoming  a  little 
more  pleasant,  as  the  Spring  is  late.  We  will  take 
with  us  what  grain  we  can  carry  for  our  cattle.  I 


WESTERN  FERRY  BOATS.  17 

am  now  enjoying  good  health  and  feel  myself 
hardening  to  our  present  rude  mode  of  life.  All 
that  now  remains  to  be  done  is  to  put  our  cattle 
to  the  wagon  and  be  off. 

APRIL  23. 

Weston  Ferry,  April  23.  As  we  found  several 
parties  before  us  at  the  ferry  this  morning,  we  are 
compelled  to  wait  several  hours  till  our  turn.  All 
we  expect  today  is  to  cross  the  river,  and  go  out 
two  or  three  miles  in  the  country,  where  we  ex- 
pect to  join  a  company.  Several  hundred  wagons 
are  already  on  the  opposite  shore,  waiting  for  the 
season  to  bring  forth  grass,  etc.  I  can  now  see  the 
smoke  ascending  from  the  camp  fires  behind  the 
bluff  upon  the  other  side.  Everybody  is  impatient 
to  be  on  the  trail,  fearing  that  others  will  reach  the 
diggings  before  him.  Two  of  our  party  are  quite 
feverish  just  now,  and  I  have  consented  to  start 
immediately,  though  I  think  it  is  too  early. 

The  ferry  boats  here  are  very  poor  and  make 
slow  passages.  Common  flat  boats  are  used,  pro- 
pelled with  oars;  they  have  to  tow  them  up  the 
shore  a  quarter  of  a  mile  before  crossing,  to  pre- 
vent landing  below  their  mark  on  the  other  side. 
They  carry  about  two  wagons  each  time,  beside 
several  head  of  cattle  or  horses.  We  are  now  to 
cross. 

APRIL  25. 

We  started  early  this  morning  from  our  encamp- 
ment one  mile  west  of  the  Missouri,  and  went  to 


18  TRIP   TO   CALIFORNIA. 

within  about  one  mile  of  a  stream  called  Soldiers' 
Creek.  We  have  not  yet  joined  a  company.  To- 
day we  made  some  18  miles.  About  noon  we 
stopped  at  the  cabin  of  an  old  Indian,  of  whom  we 
purchased  an  additional  supply  of  corn  at  $1.00  per 
barrel.  The  country  through  which  we  came  today 
is  a  high,  rolling  prairie. 

APRIL  26. 

Left  our  encampment  about  8  o'clock  in  the 
morning  and  went  some  fifteen  miles  before  stop- 
ping, where  we  encamped  for  the  night.  We 
stopped  by  a  fine  little  stream  of  excellent  water. 
Today  I  had  some  extensive  views  entirely  differ- 
ent from  any  I  ever  before  experienced.  Every- 
thing here  seems  created  on  a  magnificent  plan,  the 
atmosphere  clear,  the  landscape  just  beginning  to 
wear  its  earliest  green,  and  the  landscape  stretched 
far  back  against  the  sky.  Today  we  fell  in  with 
some  other  Californians,  but,  having  mule  teams, 
they  soon  left  us  in  the  rear.  I  have  not  yet  seen 
any  game  except  a  few  prairie  hens.  I  have  seen 
but  very  few  Indians.  Today  we  met  one  brawny 
fellow ;  he  was  quite  sociable — wanted  whiskey  and 
"tobac."  We  gave  him  a  small  piece  of  the  latter. 
He  was  very  thankful  for  small  favors,  and  as  he 
left  us,  he  took  a  trail  and  was  soon  lost  sight  of 
among  the  hills.  He  wore  buckskin  leggings,  a 
blanket  over  his  shoulders,  and  a  sort  of  turban  on 
his  head.  Last  night  I  stood  on  guard  till  12 
o'clock.  Profound  silence  reigned,  except  the 


THE   ST.   JOSEPH   ROAD.  19 

croaking  of  a  million  frogs,  and  the  distant 
rumbling  of  thunder  in  a  black  cloud  that  hung  in 
the  west.  In  the  latter  part  of  the  night  it  rained 
a  little.  The  grass  is  very  poor  here,  but  is  said 
to  be  better  several  miles  in  advance. 

APRIL  27. 

Was  off  early  this  morning,  and  traveled  about 
thirty  miles  over  a  fine  prairie  country.  I  saw  a 
large  train  of  wagons  that  came  in  on  the  St.  Jo- 
seph road.  I  have  noticed  a  great  many  ox  teams 
on  the  road.  I  believe  they  make  the  surest  team 
— will  subsist  on  nearly  anything  and  are  not  so 
liable  to  become  fractious  and  run  away,  if  prop- 
erly managed,  as  horses  or  mules.  The  weather  is 
still  cold — it  must  be  extremely  cold  here  in  winter. 

APRIL  28. 

Set  off  about  sunrise  and  drove  about  twenty 
miles  and  stopped.  Owing  to  our  ignorance  of  the 
road,  we  had  some  trouble  to  find  a  convenient 
place  to  encamp,  the  country  getting  a  little  more 
level. 

APRIL  29. 

This  morning  we  joined  a  company  of  three  wag- 
ons with  which  we  intend  to  travel.  The  men  are 
mostly  Germans  and  not  of  my  selection.  Went 
about  twenty  miles  by  one  o'clock  and  encamped; 
high  winds  prevail.  We  all  have  good  health  and 


20  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

strong  appetites.  A  sort  of  inefficient  election  was 
held  this  morning  at  which  one  of  our  men  was 
chosen  captain — a  man  in  no  way  calculated  to  act 
in  that  capacity.  Strong  pledges  of  mutual  assist- 
ance were  given,  etc.  In  looking  over  these  vast 
prairies,  just  beginning  to  freshen  beneath  the 
smile  of  Spring,  I  can  scarcely  believe  that  they 
are  uninhabited.  Not  a  tree  is  within  reach  of  the 
eye. 

APRIL  30. 

Off  again  early  this  morning  and  went  seven 
miles  before  breakfast.  After  breakfast  we 
pushed  on  twelve  miles  more  by  one  o'clock,  when 
we  stopped  to  dine,  by  a  small  brook.  Two  miles 
more  brought  us  to  another  stream,  which  we 
crossed,  and  traveled  on.  Yesterday  afternoon  a 
mild  south  wind  prevailed,  but  fell  in  the  night, 
when  it  became  quite  cold.  Toward  morning,  a 
perfect  gale  sprung  up  in  the  north,  and  though  I 
laid  in  the  wagon,  wrapped  in  a  blanket,  in  heavy 
overcoat,  I  suffered  very  much  by  the  cold.  The 
wind  poured  through  our  covering  like  cold  water. 
Thirty  wagons  passed  us  today — they  all  had  feed 
for  their  teams.  The  wind  still  raged  this  morn- 
ing till  about  noon,  when  the  sun  shone  out  and  it 
began  to  get  pleasant. 

The  country  here  assumes  a  more  even  appear- 
ance, and  resembles  in  some  degree  what  I  had  an- 
ticipated. We  have  seen  a  great  number  of  little 
animals  called  prairie  squirrels,  resembling  the 
ground  squirrel  of  the  northern  states.  The  ground 


INDIAN  DEPREDATIONS.  21 

is  literally  filled  with  their  holes.  I  have  seen  also 
a  great  many  elk  horns  by  the  way ;  they  are  huge 
specimens  and  indicate  that  a  superior  quality  of 
game  abounds  here  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year. 
A  few  prairie  hens  come  in  sight  occasionally,  but 
are  rather  wild.  No  timber  except  on  the  water 
courses,  and  upon  these  it  is  so  hedged  in  by  the 
hills  that  it  cannot  be  seen  till  you  get  close  to  it. 
In  consequence  of  their  ignorance  of  the  road,  the 
emigrants  carry  wood  and  water  where  it  is  un- 
necessary, and  again,  neglect  to  take  it  when 
needed;  but  this  is  unavoidable.  The  heavy  west 
winds  drive  a  blinding  dust  in  our  faces,  and  in  a 
few  hours  a  person  becomes  as  black  as  a  negro. 
Yesterday  we  met  two  United  States  dragoons. 
They  report  some  Indian  depredations  in  advance 
of  us.  One  is  that  a  family  has  been  massacred  by 
the  Indians,  and  that  the  troops  from  the  Fort 
Laramie  had  pursued  the  murderers  and  put  one 
hundred  to  death.  Our  road  so  far  has  been  most 
excellent,  better  than  a  turnpike,  as  it  is  not  so  hard 
for  the  feet  of  teams.  Generally  the  road  is  not 
worn  through  the  heavy  turf  but  just  deep  enough 
to  expose  the  roots  of  the  grass,  which  are  as  large 
as  a  man's  little  finger.  Yet,  from  the  appearance 
of  the  road,  there  are  a  great  many  emigrants  be- 
fore us.  Five  four-horse  wagons  passed  us  yes- 
terday ;  they  traveled  fast,  intended  to  go  forty  per 
day  and  had  feed  sufficient  for  fifteen  days,  thirty 
miles. 


&£  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

MAY  i. 

Started  early  and  went  to  a  tributary  of  Little 
Blue  River,  some  four  miles,  and  took  breakfast. 
The  grass  begins  to  look  better.  At  noon  we  found 
water  close  by  the  road.  We  are  constantly  pass- 
ing and  re-passing  wagons.  I  have  noticed  some 
few  families  on  the  road,  including  all  ages  and 
sexes.  Tonight  we  stop  off  the  road  to  the  right 
one  hundred  rods,  within  four  miles  of  Big  Blue 
River.  We  cross  it  tomorrow.  The  country  tol- 
erably level.  The  wolves  make  a  great  noise  at 
night.  A  majority  of  the  emigrants  now  on  the 
road  are  Missourians.  Distance,  twenty-four 
miles. 

MAY  2. 

Left  encampment  at  two  o'clock  this  morning, 
for  the  purpose  of  giving  our  cattle  more  time  to 
feed  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  Reached  Blue  River 
at  daylight;  crossed  over  immediately;  went  two 
miles  further  and  stopped  for  breakfast.  This 
plan  of  irregular  driving  I  consider  of  no  advan- 
tage, yet  we  have  practiced  it  because  some  of  our 
men  think  it  excellent  policy.  Weather  fine,  with 
a  shower  in  the  afternoon.  Today  we  passed  the 
place  where  the  Weston  road  joins  the  Inde- 
pendence and  St.  Joseph  roads.  Many  come  in 
from  the  Independence  road,  and  the  trail  is  now 
alive  with  emigrants.  At  night  we  stopped  twelve 
miles  west  of  Big  Blue  River,  a  short  distance  from 
the  road,  where  we  found  wood,  water  and  some 


WISCONSIN  WAGONS.  £3 

picking  for  our  cattle.  When  I  got  up  this  morn- 
ing I  felt  quite  unwell  and  soon  commenced  vomit- 
ing. Mr.  Finch  offered  me  his  pony  to  ride,  which 
I  accepted,  but  soon  found  it  almost  impossible  to 
keep  my  seat,  so  I  got  off  and  led  the  pony.  Soon 
after,  one  of  our  company  solicited  the  use  of  the 
pony,  and  as  I  let  him  have  it  and  he  rode  on,  I 
was  compelled  to  walk  till  we  stopped  for  break- 
fast. I  felt  so  exhausted  that  it  was  almost  im- 
possible to  proceed,  and  at  one  time  I  seriously 
thought  of  lying  down  by  the  road  and  resting  my- 
self, and  run  the  risk  of  losing  the  wagons.  But  I 
struggled  on  till  breakfast  time,  when  I  took  medi- 
cine and  soon  became  better.  In  many  places  in 
this  region  we  find  water  standing  in  holes  upon 
the  prairie,  and  as  the  weather  is  cool  it  is  toler- 
ably good,  though  I  suppose  it  stagnates  later  in 
the  season. 

MAY  3. 

Started  early:  soon  crossed  a  little  stream  and 
went  on  in  a  northwest  direction  till  noon,  when  we 
came  round  to  the  southwest.  Up  to  this  time  our 
general  course  has  been  northwest,  and  this  is  the 
reason  why  the  season  seems  so  backward  here. 
The  vegetation  is  no  more  advanced  here  than  at 
Weston  ten  days  since.  We  were  passed  at  noon 
by  a  company  of  one  hundred  wagons  from  Wis- 
consin, and  also  one  of  thirty  from  Illinois.  Most 
of  them  had  fine  horse  teams — generally  four 
horses  to  each  wagon.  The  wind  has  been  high 


24  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

and  cold — cold  as  winter.  Imagine  a  man  on  the 
third  of  May  walking  in  a  heavy  overcoat  and 
blanket,  and  shivering  with  cold.  This  was  my 
conditon.  At  sundown  the  wind  subsided  and  a 
rosy  glow  in  the  west  promised  a  fair  tomorrow. 
Went  nineteen  miles  today  and  stopped  by  a  little 
stream  called  Rock  Brook.  I  see  but  very  few  In- 
dians, perhaps  one  in  a  week.  We  have  passed 
the  rotawatimes  region,  and  are  now  in  that  of  the 
Pawnees.  I  have  seen  none  of  the  latter  tribe. 
Today  we  met  a  few  troops  from  Fort  Laramie. 
They  say  the  grass  is  good  in  the  valley  of  the 
Platte,  distant  about  one  hundred  miles.  Good 
health  on  the  road  generally,  though  we  see  a  grave 
occasionally,  which  reminds  us  of  the  admonition, 
"memento  mori"  and  beneath  this  inhospitable  soil 
are  hearts  once  virtuous  ambition.  The  angel  of 
death  follows  the  race  of  Adam  to  the  uttermost 
parts  of  the  earth. 

"There  is  no  flock  however  watched  and  tended, 
But  one  dead  lamb  is  there; 
There  is  no  fireside  howso'er  defended, 
But  has  one  vacant  chair." 

MAY  4. 

Today  we  made  some  eighteen  miles — passed 
two  or  three  little  streams,  and  encamped  about 
one  mile  from  the  road,  by  a  stream  of  good  water. 
Weather  pleasant  and  warm  in  the  afternoon. 
Met  one  team  returning  on  account  of  poor  grass 


LITTLE  BLUE  RIVER.  25 

in  advance.     It  is  tolerable  where  we  stop  tonight 
in  a  valley. 

MAY  5. 

Today  we  rested,  partly  to  observe  the  Sabbath 
and  partly  to  let  our  teams  rest.  The  day  has  been 
fair,  with  a  cool  breeze  from  the  north.  Sun  sets 
gloriously,  with  fair  promise  of  tomorrow.  About 
fifty  wagons  went  by  us  today,  while  others  are 
stopping  near  us.  Our  men  are  now  engaged  in 
the  business  of  the  closing  day — feeding  cattle,  etc., 
and  others  loitering  about  the  wagon  and  thinking, 
perhaps,  of  Sabbath  evenings  spent  in  a  different 
manner. 

MAY  6. 

Off  at  sunrise.  Reached  Little  Blue  River  in  the 
evening.  Day  fine.  We  crossed  several  valleys  in 
which  were  channels  filled  with  yellow  sand.  It 
is  probable  that  water  courses  through  them  dur- 
ing the  wet  seasons.  Grass  poor.  Emigrants 
pushing  by  us.  The  Little  Blue  River  is  a  fine 
stream  about  ten  yards  in  width  and  deep. 

MAY  7. 

Went  up  by  Little  Blue  River  fifteen  miles,  and 
encamped  about  4  o'clock,  earlier  than  usual,  for 
the  purpose  of  repairing  wagon  wheels.  We  are 
getting  into  the  buffalo  region;  one  was  seen  yes- 
terday and  one  killed  today  by  a  man  in  another 


26  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

company.  I  have  seen  none  yet.  Prairie  hens  are 
abundant,  and  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of  partak- 
ing of  one  myself.  Day  fine,  excepting  a  cool 
breeze. 

MAYS. 

Encamped  again  by  Little  Blue  River,  after  a 
drive  of  fifteen  miles.  This  morning  we  met  a 
young  man  in  search  of  a  pony,  which  had  strayed 
away  from  him  in  the  night.  He  looked  quite  dis- 
couraged, and  well  he  might,  as  the  lost  nag  was 
his  only  means  of  conveying  his  provisions  and 
clothes.  They  suspected  the  Indians.  Presently 
we  came  up  to  his  comrades,  where  we  found  their 
things  in  great  confusion,  and  the  man  with  them 
in  a  gloomy  mood.  But  they  were  partially  re- 
lieved by  some  gentlemen  who  were  there  when  we 
came  up,  who  offered  to  buy  their  things  or  carry 
them  for  them,  as  they  might  prefer.  It  looks  hard 
to  meet  misfortunes  so  soon,  but  many  have  had 
to  submit  to  them,  as  is  apparent  all  along  the  route. 
Horses,  mules  and  oxen  have  died,  wagons  have 
broken  down,  and  sickness  fell  to  the  lot  of  some. 
Some  of  the  teams  have  consumed  all  of  their  feed 
and  begin  to  travel  more  moderately.  In  this  case 
they  are  compelled  to  go  slow,  as  the  grass  is  very 
poor.  Roads  today  good  and  scenery  pleasant. 

MAY  9. 

Commenced  our  march  at  sunrise,  and  drove  our 
cattle  slowly  on  account  of  the  poor  feed  they  had 


PLATTE  RIVER  BOTTOM.  27 

had.  Went  up  the  Little  Blue  twelve  miles,  when 
we  left  it  and  entered  a  high  prairie  country.  Dis- 
tance, sixteen  miles. 

MAY  10. 

Went  on  as  usual.  Met  some  government  wag- 
ons going  to  Fort  Leavenworth.  Drove  eighteen 
miles  and  encamped  at  the  border  of  the  Platte 
River  bottom.  The  river  itself  is  some  four  miles 
distant,  and  there  is  no  water  nearer,  nor  wood,  so 
we  are  compelled  to  do  without  it  and  make  our 
supper  of  hard  bread,  etc.  But  little  promise  of 
grass.  Day  pleasant. 

MAY  ii. 

Went  four  miles  to  the  Platte  before  breakfast. 
Just  opposite  where  we  stopped  is  a  large  island 
and  but  a  narrow  stream  on  this  side ;  the  water  is 
very  muddy.  We  reached  Fort  Kearney  about  4 
o'clock,  ten  miles  further,  and  stopped  for  the  night 
one  mile  west  of  the  fort.  At  Fort  Kearney  there 
are  several  plain-looking  buildings,  mostly  com- 
posed of  unburnt  brick  and  turf,  and  some  tents, 
though  the  best  houses  are  wood.  One  hundred 
fifty  soldiers  are  stationed  here.  We  hope  to  reach 
Fort  Laramie  by  the  end  of  the  month.  Grass  looks 
a  little  better  in  the  valley.  Day  warm.  Distance, 
fifteen  miles. 


28  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

MAY  12. 

This  day  being  Sunday,  we  rest  ourselves,  and 
cattle  are  in  need  of  it.  About  one  hundred  wag- 
ons have  passed  us  today;  at  times  the  road  would 
be  crowded  with  them  for  a  great  distance. 

MAY  13. 

Having  rested  yesterday,  we  made  an  early  start 
this  morning,  and  went  five  miles  before  stopping 
to  take  breakfast.  Then  went  twelve  miles  farther 
and  encamped  for  the  night  near  the  river.  The 
stream  at  this  point  is  from  one  to  two  miles  wide, 
shallow,  and  divided  by  numerous  islands.  Though 
there  is  plenty  of  timber  up  on  the  opposite  shore, 
and  the  islands,  we  have  not  yet  been  able  to  get 
a  stick  upon  this  side — not  enough  for  fuel.  All 
day  we  have  seen  wagons  winding  along  on  the 
opposite  shore,  on  the  road  from  Council  Bluffs. 
The  valley  of  the  river  here  is  broad  and  beauti- 
ful, stretches  away  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach,  and 
occasionally  presenting  upon  its  blue  and  white 
profile  herds  of  buffalo,  deer,  elk,  antelope,  etc. 
Distance,  seventeen  miles. 

MAY  14. 

Some  of  our  cattle  having  strayed  off,  we  were 
delayed  a  short  time  in  finding  them.  However, 
we  were  under  way  at  seven  o'clock.  Having  en- 
camped last  night  with  three  additional  wagons, 
we  all  started  together  this  morning,  and  I  hope  we 


RUNAWAY  HORSES.  29 

may  continue  so.  Our  new  associates  appear  like 
upright  men — men  who  would  respect  justice 
where  there  is  no  law.  At  night  we  stopped  one 
mile  west  of  Plum  Creek  in  a  most  delightful 
place,  the  beauty  of  which  I  am  incapable  of  faith- 
fully delirteat  'ng.  Distance,  seventeen  miles. 

MAY  15. 

Oft"  early,  pursuing  our  course  up  the  Platte ;  val- 
ley wide  and  bordered  by  high  bluffs ;  at  places  they 
are  divided  by  deep  ravines,  giving  us  a  peep  at  the 
background.  Today  one  of  our  party  had  the  good 
luck  to  kill  an  antelope,  and  we  had  the  pleasure  of 
partaking  of  it  for  supper.  The  meat  is  very  sweet 
and  tender,  and  after  living  for  nearly  a  month  on 
salt  pork,  it  was  decidedly  relishable.  The  Indians 
visit  the  road  but  very  little,  which  is  not  much 
regretted  by  the  emigrants.  Last  night  a  man 
came  to  one  of  our  wagons  who  was  in  search  of 
horses,  which  had  become  frightened  and  ran  away 
from  his  company.  They  lost  nine,  which  were  all 
they  had.  This  is  a  great  loss.  The  grass  is  but 
little  better  here  than  it  was  at  Weston ;  the  season 
has  been  cold  and  dry.  Distance,  twenty-two 
miles. 

MAY  1 6. 

Traveled  over  a  level  country ;  saw  some  antelope 
and  was  passed  by  a  train  of  wagons  from  Galena, 
Wis.  Tonight  we  stopped  near  the  river.  I  never 
saw  finer  horses  than  are  on  this  road,  especially 


30  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

those  from  Wisconsin  and  Illinois.     Distance,  fif- 
teen miles. 

MAY  17. 

Continued  our  march  over  beautiful  prairie 
country,  and  encamped  in  the  afternoon  upon  a 
green  plain  not  far  from  the  Platte.  I  forgot  to 
mention  before  that  when  we  reached  the  fort  but 
nine  hundred  wagons  had  been  reported  as  having 
passing  this  Spring,  and  about  one  Jiundred  more 
have  gone  ahead  since  then.  From  this  we  per- 
ceive that  we  are  comparatively  among  the  first 
of  the  emigrants  this  season.  A  few  pass  us  every 
day,  but  as  we  are  passing  others,  it  is  difficult  to 
tell  how  many  really  keep  in  advance  of  us.  Dis- 
tance, fifteen  miles. 

MAY  1 8. 

In  our  course  today  we  left  the  Platte  several 
miles  to  the  right  and  entered  on  a  high  region. 
At  noon  we  stopped  by  a  small  stream  of  good 
water,  which  winds  along  in  an  easterly  direction 
between  the  hills  and  the  river.  In  the  evening  we 
stopped  on  the  same  stream  higher  up.  Grass  poor. 
Today  we  met  a  man  who  was  in  search  of  a  horse 
which  had  run  away  from  him  in  a  bufifalo  herd. 
He  had  himself  become  lost,  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  road,  was  without  food  or  arms,  except  a 
single  pistol.  Saw  numerous  herds  of  bufifalo  and 
represented  the  country  as  barren  and  desolate. 
His  horse  had  been  taken  up  by  another  company, 


HERDS  OF  BUFFALOES.  31 

and  when  we  saw  him,  he  was  in  search  of  his  own. 
Day  warm.     Distance,  seventeen  miles. 

MAY  19. 

In  consequence  of  there  being  little  grass  where 
we  stopped  last  night,  we  were  off  early  this  morn- 
ing, and  intended  to  cross  the  south  fork  of  the 
Platte  before  we  stopped,  which  we  supposed  was 
about  ten  miles  distant.  Today  I  saw  almost 
countless  numbers  of  buffalo.  I  saw  several  shot 
and  a  great  many  dead  by  the  road.  They  are 
huge  animals,  some  of  them  larger  than  any  I  ever 
saw;  ran  in  a  clumsy  sort  of  canter,  yet  they  are 
not  slow,  as  it  takes  a  good  horse  to  overtake  them. 
A  man  stayed  with  us  last  night  who  had  got  lost 
while  in  pursuit  of  the  game.  He  and  another 
man  had  killed  three,  and  had  some  choice  cuts 
with  them.  In  the  morning  I  lent  my  rifle  to  one 
of  our  party  who  wished  to  go  hunting.  In  a 
couple  of  hours  he  came  up  with  the  gun  broken; 
he  said  it  \vas  done  in  a  hand-to-hand  encounter 
with  a  buffalo.  But  I  shall  not  state  the  particu- 
lars, as  I  have  reason  to  discredit  his  story.  About 
noon  we  reached  the  south  fork  of  the  Platte  and 
crossed  it  immediately.  This  river  where  we  cross 
it  is  about  one  mile  wide,  with  an  average  depth  of 
about  one  foot.  It  is  entirely  different  from  any 
other  river  I  ever  saw  in  the  States.  The  bed  of 
the  river  is  a  kind  of  quicksand,  into  which  a  horse 
will  sink  several  inches  by  standing  still  a  few  mo- 
ments. Another  of  our  men  has  just  returned 


32  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

from  buffalo  hunting.  He  suceeded  in  killing  one, 
but  not  till  he  had  fired  twelve  bullets  at  it.  The 
balls  at  the  head  rebounded  as  from  the  solid  rock. 
This  evening  one  of  our  men  found  a  human  skull 
near  our  wagons.  It  was  perforated  by  a  ball  just 
above  the  left  eye  and  through  the  back  of  the 
head.  We  examined  it  and  conjectured  how  it 
came  here — whether  Indian  or  white,  male  or  fe- 
male. But  all  our  conjectures  could  not  draw  from 
its  eyeless  hole  one  ray  of  its  history,  nor  awake 
a  slumbering  echo  in  its  hollow  ear.  "Alas,  poor 
Yorick!  Is  that  a  place  where  a  god  may  dwell?" 
We  have  passed  more  than  fifty  wagons  today.  In 
the  afternoon  a  thunder  shower  came  up  in  the 
west,  and  for  two  or  three  hours  threatened  heavy 
rain;  and  at  length,  after  shedding  a  few  drops, 
it  passed  round  to  the  south.  We  have  been  just 
one  week  in  coming  from  Fort  Kearney,  a  dis- 
tance of  125  miles.  At  this  rate  we  shall  reach 
Fort  Laramie  by  the  first  of  June.  The  grass  is 
poor  in  this  region,  and  is  never  so  good  here  as  in 
the  districts  we  have  passed.  I  have  not  seen  an 
Indian  in  two  weeks,  but  I  presume  they  have  seen 
us  every  day.  Distance,  fifteen  miles. 

MAY  20. 

We  continued  our  march  up  the  south  fork  of 
the  Platte  some  ten  miles,  where  we  crossed  over 
the  bluffs  which  lie  between  the  two  streams,  and 
after  going  two  miles  we  reached  the  north  fork  at 
about  noon.  In  the  afternoon  we  continued  up  on 


THE  UPPER  PLATTE.  33 

the  south  side  of  the  north  flat.  At  this  point  the 
river  wears  the  same  general  characteristics  as  the 
lower  Platte.  The  banks  are  lower  and  the  soil 
less  productive,  but  the  stream  is  wide,  shallow, 
and  filled  with  islands  or  sand-bars.  Tonight  we 
feed  our  cattle  on  two  of  these  little  islands,  near 
the  south  shore.  The  grass  is  very  poor  here.  Two 
of  our  party  who  went  out  yesterday  morning  to 
hunt  have  not  yet  returned.  It  is  very  easy  to  get 
lost  on  these  vast  wilds,  as  the  country  is  very  much 
alike,  and  in  pursuing  game,  the  uninitiated  thinks 
of  very  little  beside.  Distance,  twenty  miles. 

MAY  21. 

This  morning,  after  going  some  two  miles  up  the 
banks  of  the  river,  we  turned  off  to  the  south  and 
wound  up  over  the  bluffs,  and  traveled  a  level,  dry 
region,  almost  destitute  of  vegetation.  After 
going  over  this  table-land  for  about  twelve  miles, 
we  again  came  down  to  the  river,  through  a  steep 
and  sandy  ravine.  Our  feet  would  sink  into  the 
sand  some  six  or  eight  inches  in  walking  over  it, 
and  was  thrown  up  in  showers  by  the  wheels  of  our 
wagons.  We  stopped  for  the  night  some  twelve 
miles  farther  beyond  where  we  reached  the  bot- 
tom. The  day  has  been  warm,  though  cloudy. 
The  earth  is  parched  with  drought,  and  if  rain 
does  not  fall  soon,  vegetation  will  be  entirely 
checked.  The  flood  of  emigrants  is  rushing  past 
and  behind  us,  all  in  haste  to  surpass  each  other  in 
reaching  the  land  of  gold.  Some  of  the  fastest 


34  TRIP   TO   CALIFORNIA. 

travelers  have  already  gained  much  time  upon  us; 
a  few  have  gone  by  us  who  started  as  late  as  the 
fifth  and  sixth  of  May.  But  they  are  now  com- 
pelled to  go  more  slow,  as  the  feed  with  which  they 
supplied  themselves  on  the  start  is  exhausted,  and 
their  teams  are  becoming  weak.  One  of  our  party 
waded  across  the  Platte  today  for  the  purpose  of 
ascertaining  the  condition  of  the  grass  on  the  other 
side,  as  from  our  side  it  looks  quite  forward.  The 
water  was  nowhere  above  his  knees.  Two  of  our 
men  who  left  us  on  Sunday  for  the  purpose  of 
hunting  buffaloes  have  returned.  They  were  com- 
pletely tired  of  their  sport,  having  succeeded  in 
capturing  one  of  those  huge  animals  and  wound- 
ing half  ?  dozen  more.  Distance,  nineteen  miles. 

MAY  22. 

After  going  up  the  Platte  two  miles  from  camp, 
we  left  the  stream  and  went  over  the  bluffs,  in  con- 
sequence of  the  river  banks  being  high  and  broken. 
The  road  was  not  so  good  today,  as  we  had  to  go 
through  deep  sand  most  of  the  way.  We  stopped 
at  night  at  the  mouth  of  Ash  Hollow,  at  which 
place  the  road  that  goes  up  the  South  Platte  came 
in.  A-  the  lower  end  there  are  several  springs  and 
a  little  timber,  such  as  ash  and  cedar,  and  some 
shrubbery.  We  are  now  in  the  territory  of  the 
Sioux  Indians,  a  party  of  whom  are  now  about  our 
wagons.  They  are  very  desirous  to  beg  or  buy 
provisions,  particularly  sugar,  coffee,  and  liquor. 
The  chief  was  here  and  made  himself  known  to  us. 


AN  INDIAN  VILLAGE.  35 

Their  dress  is  very  simple  and  confined  to  adults, 
the  children  going-  naked,  except  a  bit  of  cloth 
fastened  about  their  loins.  This  tribe  is  quite 
friendly,  and  the  chief  signified  that  anything  that 
we  might  lay  out  of  our  wagons  would  be  perfectly 
safe.  They  look  quite  intelligent  for  Indians  and 
superior  to  what  I  had  expected  to  see.  Some  of 
them  are  now  practicing  with  their  bows  and  ar- 
rows for  the  amusement  of  the  emigrants.  The 
wind  has  been  very  high  all  day  and  the  dust 
troublesome.  The  sun  has  just  sunk  down  in  the 
west,  casting  a  crimson  flush  upon  the  dark  clouds 
that  hang  like  a  dark  curtain  drawn  across  the  west. 
Companies  of  emigrants  have  encamped  all  around 
us,  and  should  the  Indians  make  an  attack  upon 
us,  at  least  two  hundred  men  could  be  gathered  in 
ten  minutes.  Distance,  twenty-five  miles. 

MAY  23. 

Today  we  continued  our  travel  over  a  sandy  soil, 
making  slow  progress  in  consequence.  We  set  out 
at  daybreak,  and  after  going  a  couple  of  miles, 
came  to  an  Indian  village.  They  live  in  tents  made 
of  buffalo  skins.  These  skins  they  support  on 
poles  set  round  in  a  circle  on  the  ground,  and 
fastened  together  at  the  top.  In  cold  weather  they 
make  their  fires  in  the  center  of  the  tent  and  have 
an  aperture  in  the  top  for  the  smoke  to  escape. 
These  Indians,  like  all  others,  are  always  ready 
to  trade,  and  will  sometimes  give  enormous  prices 
for  articles  they  happen  to  fancy.  Sugar  and  cof- 


36  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

fee  are  prized  very  highly  by  them.  I  have  known 
them  to  give  from  $i  to  $3  per  pint  for  the  first, 
and  as  they  seem  to  have  plenty  of  money  just  now, 
it  will  be  a  profitable  trade  for  those  who  have  a 
surplus  of  these  articles.  Before  I  left  the  United 
States  I  was  not  aware  that  these  articles  could  be 
sold  at  such  prices  among  the  Indians.  Distance, 
twenty  miles. 

MAY  24. 

Traveling  two  miles  this  morning,  we  came  to 
another  Indian  encampment  of  some  thirty- five 
tents.  They  were  encamped  upon  a  beautiful  and 
•expansive  plain.  These  Indians  are  of  the  same 
character  of  those  we  saw  yesterday.  When  we 
passed  by,  the  sun  was  just  rising  and  the  scene 
was  quite  picturesque.  These  Indians  have  a  large 
number  of  ponies  and  mules,  which  were  scattered 
over  the  valley  feeding,  while  several  Indians  in 
their  blue  and  white  blankets  an4  buffalo  skins 
were  watching  them.  There  were  four  or  five 
dogs  about  each  tent,  and  as  we  passed  they  gave 
us  a  satisfactory  display  of  vocal  sounds.  These 
dogs  are  an  inferior-looking  brute  and  from  imagi- 
nation appear  a  little  wolfish.  They  howl  rather 
than  bark,  and  when  a  number  of  them  are  in  con- 
cert, it  sounds  singularly  mournful  and  plaintive. 
The  road  becomes  better  as  we  advance  and  the 
grass  better  than  we  have  before  seen.  In  fact, 
this  is  the  earliest  period  at  which  the  grass  can 
be  considered  fit  for  working  cattle.  Distance, 
twenty  miles. 


A  REAL  HAIL  STORM.  37 

MAY  25. 

A  short  distance  beyond  our  stopping  place  we 
crossed  a  small  stream  called  Small  Creek.  Soon 
after,  we  came  in  sight  of  those  promised  curi- 
osities, the  Courthouse  and  Chimney  Rock,  the  first 
appearing  in  the  distance  like  the  dome  of  an  im- 
mense building  and  the  latter  like  a  tower  or 
straight  column.  At  noon,  we  came  nearly  oppo- 
site the  Court  House,  and  as  it  appeared  but  a 
short  distance  from  the  road,  some  of  our  men  de- 
termined to  go  to  it  and  satisfy  their  curiosity. 
They  went,  and  by  fast  walking,  overtook  us  about 
four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  It  is  about  seven 
miles  from  the  trail,  and  appears  very  fine,  being 
discernable  from  all  points.  It  is  composed  of  an 
immense  mass  of  rock,  raising  from  300  to  500 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  plain,  and  of  a  conical 
shape  at  the  summit,  from  which  it  derives  its 
name.  Chimney  Rock  is  about  twelve  miles  fur- 
ther, and  seven  miles  from  where  we  stop  tonight. 
At  noon  we  crossed  another  stream,  the  largest 
since  we  crossed  Little  Blue  River,  and  good  water. 
It  comes  in  from  the  south,  a  little  east  of  the  Court 
House.  This  afternoon  we  had  a  fine  specimen  of 
a  hail  storm  in  this  region.  A  dark  mass  of  clouds 
were  gathering  for  several  hours  in  the  west,  till 
our  path  was  overhung  with  an  impenetrable  cur- 
tain of  black,  and  at  length  the  wind,  which  was 
blowing  from  the  east,  turned  back,  and  the  storm 
rushed  upon  us.  It  was  a  real  hail  storm.  When 
it  commenced  beating,  upon  our  cattle,  they  became 


38  TRIP   TO   CALIFORNIA. 

intractable,  but  we  succeeded  in  unfastening  them 
from  the  wagons,  and  having  driven  them  behind 
the  wagons,  they  bore  it  as  well  as  might  have  been 
expected.  The  hail  stones  were  the  largest  I  ever 
saw,  some  of  them  being  as  large  as  hens'  eggs, 
and  striking  with  force  sufficient  to  make  a  man 
seek  a  shelter  as  soon  as  convenient.  It  continued 
some  twenty  minutes,  when  it  stopped  and  we  com- 
menced our  inarch;  but  we  had  not  gone  far  when 
it  recommenced,  and  we  were  compelled  to  turn 
around  and  wait  till  it  ceased.  But  we  have  reason 
to  be  thankful,  as  we  did  not  feel  the  worst  of  the 
storm.  Two  of  our  men  who  were  in  advance  to 
find  a  stopping-place  for  the  night  were  less  fortu- 
nate than  ourselves.  Where  they  were,  the  hail- 
stones were  as  large  as  lemons  and  with  force 
enough  to  bruise  a  man  severely.  Our  party  in  ad- 
vance were  on  horses,  and  as  they  became  fractious, 
they  could  not  shelter  themselves,  and  had  to  take 
the  full  force  of  the  storm.  One  of  our  men  re- 
ceived a  severe  bruise  on  his  head,  caused  by  a 
hail-stone.  But  the  storm  soon  blew  over  and  the 
sun  set  behind  a  crimson  curtain  of  transparent 
clouds.  Distance,  twenty  miles. 

MAY  26. 

Today  being  Sunday,  we  determined  to  lay  by 
till  noon  and  let  our  cattle  rest,  and  go  on  in  the 
afternoon  to  the  vicinity  of  Chimney  Rock,  which 
would  afford  better  feed  and  give  us  an  opportunity 
to  examine  this  great  natural  curiosity.  A  large 


CHIMNEY  ROCK.  39 

number  of  teams  passed  us  in  the  forenoon,  which 
made  some  of  our  party  impatient  to  be  going.  I 
said  we  stopped  to  let  our  cattle  rest,  for  the  men 
were  nearly  all  engaged  in  such  matters  as  become 
necessary,  such  as  washing  their  clothes,  airing 
their  bedding,  and  such  other  things  as  could  not 
be  done  on  the  way.  By  four  o'clock  we  were  op- 
posite Chimney  Rock,  and  after  going  a  short  dis- 
tance further  we  stopped  for  the  night.  In  com- 
pany with  some  others  of  our  party,  I  started  for 
the  Rock,  some  two  miles  distant.  The  lower  por- 
tion of  it  is  thrown  up  like  a  mound  in  a  conical 
shape,  to  the  height  of  about  two  hundred  feet,  and 
upon  this  rests  a  perpendicular  column  of  some 
twenty  feet  in  diameter,  and  about  one  hundred 
feet  high.  By  some,  the  height  of  the  rock  is  com- 
puted at  from  five  hundred  to  eight  hundred  feet, 
but  I  have  put  it  as  it  appeared  to  me.  The  lower 
portion  is  composed  of  baked  clay,  and  the  upper 
part  of  a  kind  of  soft  rock,  darker  in  color  than 
the  base.  I  saw  thousands  of  names  which  were 
engraved  upon  the  plaster  material,  and  intended 
to  carve  my  own,  but  was  prevented  by  a  storm 
coming  on.  It  continued  to  rain  that  evening,  and 
as  there  was  a  cold  wind,  and  we  had  no  fuel  ex- 
cept a  liitle  we  had  in  our  wagons,  it  was  anything 
but  pleasant ;  but  as  we  went  to  bed  early,  \ve  soon 
forgot  the  rain  beneath  comfortable  blankets. 
Though  the  ground  was  wet,  a  good  buffalo  robe 
was  sufficient  to  keep  out  dampness  all  night.  High 
bluffs  are  visible  on  each  side  of  us,  and  in  ad- 
vance. Distance,  eight  miles. 


40  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

MAY  27. 

For  a  few  days  past  we  have  got  up  and  started 
about  two  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  so  we  did 
this  morning.  So  after  we  set  out,  it  recommenced 
raining  and  continued  till  we  stopped  for  breakfast. 
Some  of  our  men  swore  if  they  were  at  home  they 
would  not  be  caught  here  again,  and  it  was  dis- 
agreeable, trying  to  kindle  a  fire  of  wet  fuel,  being 
wet  ourselves,  and  still  getting  more  damp  and 
chilly  if  possible.  But  at  length  the  clouds  broke 
away,  and  having  refreshed  ourselves  with  some 
warm  breakfast,  we  went  on  our  way  rejoicing. 
We  left  the  river  in  the  early  part  of  the  day,  and 
traveled  upon  a  high  plain,  with  Scotts  Bluffs  as 
the  boundary.  In  the  evening  we  reached  the 
bluffs,  where  we  encamped.  In  this  region  wood 
and  water  is  very  scarce,  and  we  were  not  able  to 
collect  during  the  day  so  much  as  we  needed;  but 
this  might  be  remedied  by  taking  them  in  previ- 
ously if  we  had  known  what  was  in  advance.  At 
the  Bluffs  we  found  several  little  springs,  but  they 
were  between  such  precipitous  banks  that  it  was 
almost  impossible  to  get  our  cattle  to  them,  and 
some  of  them  entirely  beyond  their  reach.  Here 
we  found  a  little  wood,  consisting  of  a  few  speci- 
mens of  stunted  cedar  scattered  upon  the  bluffs  and 
in  the  ravines,  and  a  little  dry  wood  in  the  valley, 
having  been  washed  down  by  the  rain.  This  lat- 
ter is  most  excellent  fuel,  having  been  exposed  to 
the  sun  for  years,  and  as  dry  as  powder.  Some  of 
the  best  teams  begin  to  go  our  pace  and  will  be 


LARAMIE  RIVER.  41 

thankful    if    they    can    maintain    it.       Distance, 
twenty-three  miles. 

MAY  28. 

After  proceeding  a  couple  of  miles,  we  came  to 
an  Indian  encampment  and  also  a  place  where 
blacksmi thing  was  done,  and  on  a  little  further  we 
ascended  the  bluffs  and  traveled  over  a  level,  high 
country  and  came  to  the  Platte  again  in  the  after- 
noon and  encamped  at  night  in  the  valley  of  that 
stream.  This  morning  we  had  the  first  view  of 
the  Rocky  Mountains,  1 50  miles  distant.  Laramie 
Peak  looks  like  a  vast  sugar  loaf.  We  see  a  little 
timber  today  by  the  Platte,  such  as  cedar,  pine 
and  poplar.  Day  warm,  and  sand  deep.  Dis- 
tance, twenty-five  miles. 

MAY  29. 

After  traveling  five  miles,  we  came  to  a  trading 
place,  which  was  occupied  by  some  half  dozen  men 
and  some  thirty  or  forty  Sioux  Indians.  They  had 
clothing,  but  no  provisions,  which  were  most 
sought  by  the  emigrants.  This  place  is  within 
twenty  miles  of  Fort  Laramie,  and  we  have  been 
so  successful  in  getting  over  the  ground  that  we 
feel  no  small  degree  of  gratification.  At  three 
o'clock  we  came  to  Laramie  River  and  forded  it 
and  encamped  about  one  half  mile  beyond  by  the 
road  opposite  the  Fort,  which  is  a  mile  or  more 
to  the  south  of  it.  In  consequence  of  the  lateness 
of  our  arrival  and  the  determination  of  our  party 
to  proceed  early  in  the  morning,  I  could  not  find 


42  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

time  to  visit  it,  but  was  compelled  to  satisfy  my 
curiosity  at  a  distance.  From  where  I  now  am  I 
can  see  several  respectable  looking-  buildings,  look- 
ing the  most  like  civilization  of  anything  that  I 
have  seen  since  I  left  Weston.  Laramie  River  has 
the  same  characteristics  as  the  Platte,  only  much 
smaller,  and  about  four  feet  deep  where  we  forded 
it.  A  large  number  of  emigrants  change  their 
mode  of  travel  at  this  place — from  wagons  to  pack- 
ing— for  the  purpose  of  hastening  their  arrival  in 
the  gold  regions.  In  doing  this,  some  of  them 
abandon  much  property,  such  as  guns,  tools,  bed- 
ding, clothing,  and  more  especially  wagons  and 
harness.  I  was  told  last  evening  that  two  men  had 
just  thrown  their  rifles  into  the  Platte,  having  tried 
to  sell  them  to  no  purpose,  and  being  determined 
that  no  one  should  profit  by  the  loss.  Good  wagons 
can  be  bought  for  a  mere  trifle,  and  many  of  them 
can  be  had  for  nothing.  An  excellent  one  was  sold 
here  yesterday  at  $7  and  with  it  a  lot  of  other  valu- 
ables thrown  into  the  bargain.  Near  us  in  this  val- 
ley there  is  a  very  large  number  of  emigrants  en- 
camped, stopping  for  the  purpose  of  some  business 
and  seeing  the  Fort.  I  should  think  there  were 
about  500  wagons  and  2,000  men.  Provisions, 
biscuit  and  bacon  can  be  obtained  at  the  Fort  in 
small  quantities  by  those  who  are  in  need  of  them, 
sufficient  to  last  them  to  Salt  Lake.  Biscuit,  $14 
per  pound.  Though  we  are  on  the  first  part  of 
our  journey,  we  see  many  things  left  by  the  way, 
but  everything  of  any  value  is  examined  and  per- 


TRIALS  AND  HARDSHIPS.  43 

liaps  taken  a  short  distance  by  those  who  come 
after,  when  they  in  turn  cast  them  away;  and 
others  still  encumber  themselves  as  before.  I  have 
seen  men  take  hold  of  a  log  chain  and  drag  it  for 
several  rods,  knowing  at  the  same  time  that  they 
could  not  take  it  with  them;  but  having  large  ac- 
quisitiveness, they  would  cling  to  it  from  the  force 
of  habit,  or  in  hopes  that  some  lucky  circumstance 
would  turn  up  that  would  enable  them  to  sell  it. 
A  man  was  at  our  camp  this  morning  who  had  a 
rifle,  a  hatchet,  and  a  shovel,  which  he  offered  to 
sell  for  two  dollars,  but  could  not,  so  he  gave  the 
rifle  to  one  of  our  party  and  took  the  rest  along. 
The  soil  is  poor  and  sandy  here  and  the  grass  short 
and  dry.  Distance,  twenty-five  miles. 

MAY  30. 

At  three  o'clock  this  morning  we  were  under  way 
and  continued  up  the  Platte,  and  having  gone  six- 
teen miles  by  two  o'clock,  we  stopped  for  the  night, 
our  cattle  being  much  in  need  of  feed  and  rest, 
having  traveled  hard  and  found  but  little  feed  in 
the  vicinity  of  the  Fort.  Some  three  miles  before 
we  stopped  we  left  the  river  and  ascended  the  table- 
land, passing  over  innumerable  little  knobs,  upon 
which  is  scattered  a  little  cedar  and  pine.  In  a  ra- 
vine near  the  camp  is  an  excellent  spring  of  water 
and  tolerably  good  grass.  In  the  afternoon  a  dark 
cloud  arose  in  the  west,  and  soon  came  thunder 
and  lightning  and  rain;  and  now  while  I  am  writ- 
ing it  is  dancing  upon  our  tent  in  a  fine  manner — 


44  TRIP   TO    CALIFORNIA. 

a  manner  peculiar  to  this  country.  At  length  the 
clouds  cleared  away  and  our  party  concluded  to 
proceed  a  few  miles  further.  Accordingly,  we  col- 
lected our  cattle,  yoked  them,  and  drove  about  five 
miles  further..  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  some 
soldiers  who  were  engaged  in  burning  lime  for  the 
Fort.  One  of  them  wanted  to  buy  liquor;  said 
he  had  that  day  offered  $16  per  gallon  for  brandy 
to  an  emigrant  but  could  not  get  it.  One  of  our 
company  sold  him  a  drink  of  whiskey  for  fifty 
cents.  Distance,  twenty-one  miles. 

MAY  31. 

Going  two  miles  this  morning,  we  came  to  a  lit- 
tle stream  called  the  Little  Cottonweed.  Our  trail 
led  over  a  hilly  country,  presenting  every  variety 
of  scenery,  from  the  level  plain  to  the  bold  bluffs, 
with  here  a  few  shrubs  of  pine  and  cedar.  These 
evergreens  are  the  only  objects  generally  which  en- 
liven the  plains  in  which  they  are  found,  as  they 
usually  grow  in  the  moist  barrens  and  indescrib- 
able places,  deep  ravines  and  nearly  naked  rocks. 
At  length  we  have  come  into  the  region  of  wild 
sage,  so  well  known  and  so  much  hated  by  the  emi- 
grant, as  it  grows  in  the  most  inhospitable  regions. 
It  is  a  low,  bushy  shrub,  with  thick  and  light-col- 
ored leaves,  resembling  to  some  extent  the  leaf  of 
the  cultivated  sage  and  exhaling  a  similar  scent. 
Our  road  is  very  circuitous.  We  have,  in  a  few 
hours,  traveled  toward  every  point  of  the  compass. 
Laramie  Peak,  which  we  first  saw  from  Scotts 


L ARAM IE  PEAK.  45 

Bluffs,  is  still  in  sight,  several  miles  to  the  south 
of  us.  Its  snow-capped  summit  presents  a  strong 
contrast  to  the  green  hill  and  prairie,  which  are  just 
putting  on  their  summer  apparel.  Today  we 
swapped  our  wagon  for  one  we  found  abandoned 
by  the  road.  We  made  a  good  trade.  Distance, 
twenty-one  miles. 

JUNE  i. 

Still  among  the  hills.  In  the  afternoon  over  a 
liigh,  level  plain.  Stopped  at  night  by  a  little 
stream,  a  short  distance  from  the  Blue  Mountain. 
Day  fine.  Distance,  twenty-five  miles. 

JUNE  2. 

Today  we  moved  on  till  we  came  to  a  little 
stream  about  four  miles  from  our  last  night's  stop- 
ping-place. One  mile  from  where  we  stopped,  we 
crossed  a  little  stream  called  Mountain  Blue.  We 
liave  not  found  a  more  beautiful  place  than  where 
we  stopped  today — plenty  of  wood,  water  and 
grass.  Day  fine;  health  good.  There  is  a  novel 
feature  in  this  region  in  the  existence  of  a  red  sand 
which  gives  to  the  prospect  a  very  picturesque  char- 
acter. I  suppose  it  was  caused  by  volcanic  fires, 
which  burned  perhaps  centuries  ago.  A  soft  qual- 
ity of  marble  also  abounds  here,  and  many  of  our 
party  have  smoothed  pieces  of  it  and  written  or 
carved  their  names,  dates,  and  other  laconic  bits 
of  news  upon  them  for  their  friends  behind  them. 
I  cut  a  level  surface  upon  a  piece  and  wrote  thus: 


46  TRIP   TO   CALIFORNIA. 

"C.  W.  Smith,  Centreville,  Indiana.  'On  the  night's 
Plutonian  shore.'  June  2,  1850."  The  country 
over  which  we  aie  passing  is  becoming  very  rocky 
and  broken,  and  1  am  surprised  that  we  can  pass 
over  it  with  so  little  difficulty.  Sometimes  we  pass 
along  an  extensive  range  of  hills,  sometimes 
through  a  deep  gorge  or  dry-bed  of  a  stream,  and 
then  again  winding  along  a  serpentine  track,  thus 
ever  changing  from  scene  to  scene,  deriving  new 
interest  from  them  all  and  learning  each  day  some- 
thing more  of  the  many  wonders  of  nature.  Dis- 
tance, four  miles. 

JUNE  3. 

Having  refreshed  ourselves  yesterday  (Sunday) 
by  the  river  La  Bronte,  we  proceeded  this  morning 
in  good  spirits;  about  ten  o'clock  we  crossed  the 
river  "a  la  Psetc  (Prele?)"  ten  or  twelve  feet  in 
width,  and  at  night  encamped  on  La  Boisce.  Great 
variety  of  scenery.  A  t  noon  we  had  a  heavy 
shower  of  rain,  which  increased  the  water  in  the 
creeks  to  an  almost  impassable  height.  Tonight 
the  sky  is  obscured  by  heavy  masses  of  dark  clouds 
that  sit  with  portentous  aspect  upon  the  brows  of 
the  mountains.  The  valleys  of  the  tributaries  of 
the  Platte  through  which  we  have  passed  are  nar- 
row and  winding,  with  little  timber,  such  as  wil- 
lows, lind,  cottonwood  and  poplars,  beside  a  little 
cedar  and  pine,  in  the  ravines  and  on  the  bluffs. 
Distance,  twenty-three  miles. 


WHERE  MILES  ARE  LONG.  47 

JUNE  4. 

Going  nine  miles  brought  us  to  a  stream  called 
Deer  Creek,  about  twenty  yards  wide  and  with  a 
strong  current.  Crossed  one  more  stream  during 
the  day.  Muddy,  crooked  creek,  and  encamped  in 
the  valley  of  the  Platte,  twelve  miles  from  the 
stream.  Country  more  level  by  the  Platte.  Weather 
pleasant.  Distance,  eighteen  miles. 

JUNE  5. 

Distances  are  very  deceptive  here.  A  range  of 
mountains  to  our  left  appeared  about  two  miles  off ; 
became  the  object  of  curiosity  to  some  of  our  party 
from  the  fact  that  there  was  snow  upon  its  summit, 
and  so  they  concluded  to  walk  across  the  plain  and 
ascend  .them  and  get  some  of  the  snow,  if  such  it 
was,  which  some  of  them  doubted.  They  started 
about  2  p.  M.  and  as  we  laid  by  this  afternoon,  they 
supposed  it  a  good  opportunity.  At  sundown  our 
explorers  returned,  much  fatigued.  They  had 
walked  the  entire  afternoon  after  they  had  left  us. 
The  top  of  the  mountains  was  about  twelve  miles 
distant,  and  they  had  been  there.  They  brought  a 
snowball  and  declared  that  what  they  saw  was 
worth  their  labor.  Distance,  twelve  miles. 

JUNE  6. 

We  started  early  this  morning,  in  order  to  get 
ferried  across  the  Platte  before  those  who  stopped 
behind  us  over  night.  One  mile's  travel  brought  us 


48  TRIP   TO   CALIFORNIA. 

to  the  ferry,  and  our  wagons  were  taken  across 
without  delay.  There  are  three  boats  running 
across  abreast,  though  conducted  by  different  men. 
Price  per  wagon  $4.00.  They  were  not  willing  to 
ferry  our  cattle  over,  so  we  drove  them  up  a  short 
distance,  and  made  them  swim  the  stream.  The 
boats  are  run  on  a  very  simple  principal  and  a  very 
good  one.  A  long  line  is  stretched  across  the  river, 
secured  at  each  end.  To  this  are  placed  two  pulley 
wheels,  which  are  fastened  to  ropes  attached  to  the 
boat  at  each  end,  and  the  forward  rope  being  the 
shortest,  the  side  of  the  boat  is  brought  to  the  force 
of  the  current  and  forced  across.  Two  wagons  are 
placed  in  a  boat  each  trip,  which  is  made  in  about 
ten  minutes.  All  being  safely  over,  about  8  o'clock 
we  resumed  our  march,  leaving  the  river  and  fol- 
lowing the  trail  over  a  high  range  of  country,  desti- 
tute of  wood  and  water.  At  noon  we  stopped  a 
short  time  at  Alkali  Pond — very  poor  water  and 
grass;  and  being  none  better  within  fifteen  miles, 
we  pushed  on  in  order  to  reach  them  by  night.  At 
sundown  we  came  from  a  stream  which  comes 
from  what  are  called  Willow  Springs,  about  two 
miles  further  on.  Stopped  here.  This  being  a 
general  stopping  place,  the  grass  is  poor.  The 
stream  is  small  and  the  valley  narrow.  On  the  up- 
land there  is  no  vegetation  worth  mentioning,  ex- 
cept wild  sage,  which  grows  in  stunted  clumps  all 
over  the  country.  We  see  mountain  peaks  to  the 
left  and  in  advance,  the  first  being  a  range  of  the 
Black  Hills  and  the  second  the  Rattlesnake  Moun- 
tains, I  suppose.  Distance,  twenty-six  miles. 


£  ; :  INDEPENDENCE  ROCK.  49 

JUNE  7. 

After  traveling  over  a  rough  country  till  noon, 
we  came  to  Grease  Creek  and  encamped  on  it  near 
Rattlesnake  Rock.  We  stopped  about  two  o'clock 
for  the  purpose  of  resting  and  letting  our  cattle 
feed,  as  we  had  just  come  over  a  portion  of  the 
route  nearly  destitute  of  grass  and  water.  We 
came  by  one  little  stream  which  is  known  to  be  poi- 
sonous, the  water  being  strongly  impregnated  with 
alkali.  We  learn  by  some  emigrants  since  we 
passed  this  stream  that  a  company  who  were  ig- 
norant of  the  nature  of  the  water  let  their  horses 
drink  it.  and  many  of  them  died  in  consequence. 
Distance,  fourteen  miles. 

JUNE  8. 

Today  at  noon  we  reached  the  Sweetwater,  much 
elated,  as  we  had  been  on  the  muddy  Platte  for 
more  than  twenty  days.  The  river  is  here  about 
six  rods  wide,  and  deep;  water  tolerably  good,  not 
quite  clear.  Another  mile  brought  us  to  the  far- 
famed  Independence  Rock.  I  climbed  up  its  ab- 
rupt, rocky  sides,  and  spent  a  few  minutes  in  walk- 
ing about  its  summit,  though  I  had  not  time  to  ex- 
amine it  as  I  wished.  It  is  composed  of  solid  rock 
of  a  light  red  clay  color,  about  one  eighth  of  a  mile 
long  and  two  hundred  feet  high.  There  are  huge 
masses  of  grotesque  rocks  lying  upon  its  sides  and 
summit,  some  of  which  weighed  hundreds  of  tons 
and  appear  as  if  they  could  be  shoved  off  by  the 


50  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

hand.  On  the  prominent  points  of  this  rock  are 
carved  and  painted  thousands  of  names,  in  all 
styles  and  sizes ;  some  are  put  high  up  on  the  ledges, 
where  it  must  have  been  difficult  to  place  them,  and 
others  nearer  the  ground.  I  looked  for  a  familiar 
name,  but  could  find  none,  though  I  saw  all  the 
states  inscribed,  as  the  former  residences  of  these 
pilgrims.  One  half  mile  further  on  we  crossed  the 
Sweet  Water,  and  in  the  afternoon  went  by  what  is 
called  The  Devil's  Gate,  a  narrow  channel  of  the 
stream,  through  a  pass  of  the  Rattlesnake  Moun- 
tains. Looking  down  into  the  stream  from  the 
rocks  hundreds  of  feet  high,  it  is  said  that  the 
Sweet  Water  appears  as  a  mere  rivulet.  Some  of 
our  party  climbed  to  the  top  of  the  Gate  and 
boasted  of  having  done  some  daring  climbing.  We 
are  now  surrounded  by  mountains,  entirely  barren, 
except  a  few  stunted  cedars  or  other  evergreens. 
The  range  on  the  south  is  partly  covered  with  snow. 
Distance,  twenty-two  miles. 

JUNE  9. 

Started  in  the  morning.  A  shower  at  noon. 
Distance,  fourteen  miles. 

JUNE  10. 

After  proceeding  up  the  river  for  fourteen 
miles,  we  left  it  for  sixteen  miles.  At  night  we 
stopped  at  the  Ice  Springs.  The  water  is  very  bad 
here,  so  much  so  that  we  dare  not  let  our  cattle 


SWEET  WATER  VALLEY.  51 

drink  it.  We  see  many  evidences  of  its  fatality  in 
the  many  horses  and  cattle  in  the  vicinity.  Dis- 
tance, twenty  miles. 

JUNE  n. 

Started  early  and  reached  the  Sweet  Water 
again  about  10  o'clock,  having  gone  some  ten  miles. 
We  were  delayed  an  hour  in  the  morning  to  find 
our  cattle  that  had  strayed  off.  Many  of  our  cat- 
tle show  the  effects  of  bad  water  and  today  our 
best  yoke  gave  out,  having  to  take  them  from  the 
wagon  and  drive  them  slowly  behind.  Distance, 
ten  miles. 

JUNE  12. 

Still  by  the  Sweet  Water.  The  valley  is  becom- 
ing more  narrow  and  the  stream  more  rapid.  In 
advance  and  a  little  to  the  north  of  our  trail,  we  can 
see  the  Wind  River  Mountains.  Their  lofty  sum- 
mits are  covered  with  snow,  and  in  their  dazzling 
whiteness  appear  truly  sublime.  From  their  great 
height  and  the  transparency  of  the  air,  they  look 
not  far  off,  though  they  are  probably  not  less  than 
seventy-five  miles.  In  the  afternoon  I  walked  over 
a  body  of  snow  lying  near  the  road,  and  as  it  had 
retreated  down  the  bank,  it  was  interesting  to  no- 
tice how  the  grass  and  flowers  had  followed,  a  bar- 
ren space  of  not  more  than  three  yards  intervening 
winter's  snow  and  summer's  flowers.  Pleasant 
day,  just  cool  enough  to  be  agreeable.  The  grass 


52  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

is  becoming  better,  as  there  are  numerous  springs 
in  this  vicinity,  by  which  it  grows.  Distance, 
nineteen  miles. 

JUNE  13. 

Started  early  this  morning  and  went  two  and 
three  quarters  miles  to  the  North  Sweet  Water, 
where  we  took  breakfast  and  stopped  till  noon.  In 
the  afternoon  we  crossed  Willow  Creek,  and  at 
night  encamped  on  a  fine  little  brook  of  crystal 
water  about  one  mile  from  the  main  road.  Today 
we  have  felt  that  we  are  in  a  high  region.  We  see 
snow  in  all  directions — on  the  mountains,  on  the 
hills  and  in  the  ravines — and  here,  a  few  yards 
above  me,  an  extensive  bed  reflects  the  rays  of  the 
setting  sun  over  a  bed  of  sweet  pink  flowers  which 
peep  up  through  the  fresh  grass.  The  grass  is 
good  here,  though  rather  short.  We  are  now 
within  about  ten  miles  of  the  South  Pass,  which 
we  will  probably  reach  by  tomorrow  noon.  We  see 
no  longer  any  of  the  large  companies  which  over- 
took us  on  the  outset  of  the  journey.  They  have 
invariably  broken  up  into  small  companies  of  five 
or  six  wagons.  This  is  the  best  plan,  especially 
when  there  is  no  danger  to  be  apprehended  from 
the  Indians.  It  is  impossible  for  large  companies 
to  improve  the  time  like  small  companies.  The 
great  difficulty  is  there  is  too  much  hesitation  on  the 
plains,  which  invariably  results  in  disagreement. 
Distance,  eleven  miles. 


CROSSING  A  DESERT.  53 

JUNE  14. 

After  going  a  little  over  a  mile,  we  crossed  the 
Sweet  Water  for  the  last  time,  leaving  it  to  our 
right.  At  noon  we  were  at  the  South  Pass,  where 
we  stopped  for  a  short  time..  In  the  afternoon  we 
passed  the  Pacific  Springs  and  encamped  within 
about  two  miles  of  Little  Sandy.  In  the  afternoon 
it  rained  very  hard,  and  now,  at  sundown,  as  heavy 
a  cloud  as  I  ever  saw  is  coming  up  in  the  west.  Dis- 
tance, seventeen  miles. 

JUNE  15. 

Quite  cool  last  night,  so  much  so  that  we  could 
not  keep  warm  between  a  buffalo  robe  and  two 
good  blankets.  The  night  before  last  was  cold 
also.  Water  froze  over  near  our  camp.  After 
three  miles'  travel  this  morning  we  came  to  what  is 
called  Dry  Sandy.  In  the  valley  there  is  no  water 
at  this  season  of  the  year.  We  passed  down  the 
valley  six  miles,  when  we  came  to  the  fork  in  the 
roads — the  Salt  Lake  and  Subletts  (?) — cut  off, 
the  former  leading  down  by  Sandy  and  the  latter 
keeping  to  the  right,  west.  Five  miles  more 
brought  us  to  the  Little  Sandy,  where  we  stopped 
for  the  night.  Tomorrow  we  shall  go  but  six 
miles  to  Big  Sandy,  where  we  shall  prepare  to  cross 
a  desert,  as  it  is  called,  stretching  from  that  stream 
to  Green  River,  a  distance  of  forty  miles,  which  is 
generally  traveled  in  the  night.  Distance,  six 
miles. 


54  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

JUNE  1 6. 

Today  we  laid  by  to  prepare  to  cross  the  desert 
from  Big  Sandy  to  Green  River.  This  afternoon 
I  went  up  this  stream  about  three  miles  to  cut  grass 
for  our  cattle  while  crossing  the  desert.  I  was  en- 
gaged half  a  day  in  cutting  two  small  sacks  full 
with  a  knife.  Then  I  came  back  to  the  wagons  and 
started  down  the  stream  for  more  grass,  but  found 
it  more  scarce  than  ever.  There  is  but  little  grass 
in  this  region,  excepting  the  creek  bottoms,  and 
they  are  few  and  narrow. 

JUNE  17. 

As  it  was  agreed  to  start  early,  I  went  in  conir 
pany  with  some  others  to  fetch  our  cattle  from 
some  three  miles  up  the  river,  where  they  had  been 
feeding.  A  snowstorm  came  on  about  daybreak 
and  I  had  the  full  benefit  of  it.  I  walked  several 
miles  in  search  of  a  couple  of  ponies  that  belonged 
to  the  company  and  was  at  last  compelled  to  return 
without  them.  The  face  of  the  country  there  is 
nearly  destitute  of  vegetation,  wild  sage,  grease- 
wood  and  an  occasional  bunch  of  grass  being  the 
entire  product  of  the  soil.  We  left  Big  Sandy  at 
about  eleven  and  a  half  A.  M.  with  the  intention  of 
traveling  all  night  and  reaching  Green  River  the 
next  morning.  We  pushed  on  as  fast  as  we  could 
against  a  strong  wind  and  a  blinding  dust.  A  lit- 
tle before  sundown  we  stopped  an  hour  for  supper 
and  to  feed  our  cattle,  having  gone  fifteen  miles. 


BIG  SANDY  TO  GREEN  RIVER.  55 

This  over,  we  entered  the  night,  and  the  most  tedi- 
ous part  of  our  journey.  With  the  sun  went  down 
the  wind  and  we  hoped  that  an  agreeable  night 
would  follow  such  a  boisterous  day.  But  we  were 
disappointed.  A  dark  cloud  overcast  the  sky  and 
soon  a  snowstorm  came  drifting  in  our  faces,  and 
continued  all  night.  At  twelve  o'clock  we  stopped 
to  rest  and  feed  our  cattle,  and  then  pushed  on  till 
eight  o'clock  in  the  morning,  when  we  reached  the 
Green  River.  The  country  between  these  streams 
is  not  so  barren  as  I  was  led  to  suppose.  It  is  but 
little  more  so  than  much  of  the  ground  we  had 
passed  over  before,  west  of  Fort  Laramie.  Green 
River  is  about  1,000  feet  lower  than  Big  Sandy. 
Upon  this  stretch  of  forty  miles  there  is  not  a  drop 
of  water,  and  this  is  the  reason  why  it  is  so  barren. 
Our  cattle  stood  the  drive  very  well.  In  the  morn- 
ing the  sun  shone  out  clear  and  warm  and  the  thin 
mantle  of  snow  soon  disappeared  beneath  his 
beams.  Distance,  forty-six  miles. 

JUNE  1 8. 

About  7  o'clock  this  morning  we  came  within 
sight  of  Green  River,  apparently  not  far  off,  but 
several  hundred  feet  below  us.  After  the  most  dis- 
agreeable night's  travel  I  ever  experienced,  we 
were  elated  at  the  prospect  of  being  so  near  a  stop- 
ping-place, but  on  following  the  trail  we  had  to  go 
about  three  miles  further  before  we  got  down  to 
the  river.  Green  River  is  about  twenty  rods  wide 
here  and  so  deep  that  it  has  to  be  ferried.  In  the 


56  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

Spring  it  is  said  it  can  be  forded,  but  it  is  swollen 
now  in  consequence  of  the  snow  melting  at  its 
sources.  There  are  two  ferries,  which  charge  $7 
per  wagon.  We  made  arrangements  to  have  ours 
crossed  this  evening,  and  accordingly  they  were 
taken  over  without  accident.  I  am  told  that  four 
men  were  drowned  the  other  day  in  attempting  to 
cross  on  a  raft.  Some  companies  find  it  difficult  to 
make  their  horses  and  cattle  swim  the  stream,  but 
ours  went  over  without  trouble.  We  found  the 
grass  rather  scarce  near  the  ferry,  and  drove  our 
cattle  three  miles  up  the  river,  where  it  was  first- 
rate.  In  company  writh  three  others  of  our  party, 
I  went  up  about  sundown  to  watch  the  cattle  over 
night.  Nowhere  upon  the  way  have  I  found  a 
more  beautiful  place  than  this.  The  valley  of  ^he 
river  is  broad  and  Spring's  first  fresh  carpet  of 
grass  adorned  with  fragrant  flowers.  The  numer- 
ous varieties  of  shrubs  divided  and  subdivided  the 
valley  into  picturesque  lawns,  and  gave  more  va- 
riety to  the  scenery.  We  built  a  good  fire  of  dry 
wood,  and  spreading  our  buffalo  robes  upon  the 
grass,  we  laid  down  to  rest,  one  watching  at  a  time 
and  being  relieved  at  intervals  by  the  others. 

JUNE  19. 

This  morning  we  drove  the  cattle  back  to  the 
wagons  and  taking  breakfast  while  our  company 
were  preparing  to  start,  we  were  on  the  march  by 
7  o'clock.  Here  we  entered  a  decidedly  mountain- 
ous country  and  our  road  is  very  crooked.  After 


A  LUDICROUS  INCIDENT.  57 

winding  over  and  around  the  mountains  for  about 
eight  miles,  we  came  to  a  tributary  of  Green  River, 
which  we  expect  to  travel  up  for  several  miles.  We 
went  two  miles  up  this  stream  and  rested  for  an 
hour  or  two.  We  found  good  grass  by  driving  our 
cattle  across  the  stream,  which  is  narrow  and  deep. 
Quite  a  ludicrous  incident  occurred  here.  As  I 
said,  the  stream  is  deep,  though  narrow,  our  cattle 
being  compelled  to  swim  it  when  only  eight  or  ten 
yards  wide.  Well,  when  we  were  ready  to  start, 
somebody  must  cross  over  to  bring  the  cattle  back. 
After  some  equivocations,  two  men  were  chosen, 
and  having  undressed  and  went  a  little  higher  up 
the  stream,  they  plunged  in,  but  instead  of  swim- 
ming, they  struck  their  knees  upon  the  bottom,  and 
having  raised  upright  in  two  feet  depth  of  water, 
walked  the  remainder  of  the  way  across,  amid  the 
laughter  of  the  whole  company.  We  crossed  to 
the  south  side  of  the  stream  about  two  miles  fur- 
ther on  and  left  it.  After  going  seven  miles  fur- 
ther we  came  to  another,  and  two  miles  more,  an- 
other still,  by  which  we  stopped  for  the  night.  We 
see  snow  all  round  us  an<J  have  very  cool  nights. 
Distance,  nineteen  miles. 

JUNE  20. 

Continued  our  march  over  a  mountainous  coun- 
try, the  most  rough  I  ever  saw.  From  some  of  the 
elevations  we  could  see  the  trail  for  miles,  dotted 
with  men,  horses  and,  more  distinctly,  the  white- 
covered  wagons.  We  passed  numerous  small 


58  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

streams,  flowing  from  the  mountains.  After  going 
about  seventeen  miles,  we  reached  Ham's  Fork  of 
Green  River,  and  encamped  four  miles  beyond  it 
on  the  open  prairie,  where  we  found  good  grass, 
and  water  we  had  in  store.  The  day  has  been 
pleasant,  more  so  than  any  we  have  had  since  we 
left  the  Sweet  Water.  This  morning  I  had  a  fine 
view  of  the  Bear  River  Mountains,  about  seventy- 
five  miles  distance,  stretching  around  the  sky 
from  'he  sonth  to  the  southwest.  Their  summits 
are  covered  with  spotless  snow.  At  Ham's  Fork  I 
saw  another  party  of  the  Snake  River  Indians. 
Most  of  them  looked  very  squalid  and  miserable, 
and  beg  provisions  of  all  they  can.  They  are  less 
prepossessing  than  the  Sioux,  though  they  are  well 
supplied  with  guns  and  horses.  They  are  good 
horsemen  and  use  their  sharp-pointed  arrows  with 
the  certainty  of  a  bullet.  The  mosquitoes  began  to 
trouble  us  today  for  the  first  time.  We  expect  they 
will  lay  a  long  siege  to  our  blood.  Distance,, 
twenty-one  miles. 

JUNE  21. 

Country  continues  very  mountainous.  In  the 
afternoon  we  passed  over  a  very  high  range,  to  de- 
scend which  ropes  had  been  used  by  former  emi- 
grants on  a  trail  near  the  one  we  took.  We  had 
two  wheels  of  our  wagon  locked  for  more  than  a 
mile,  and  then  it  was  hard  to  keep  it  from  running 
over  the  cattle.  The  mosquitoes  stick  to  us  like 
genuine  friends,  especially  during  the  day ;  at  night 


BEAR  RIVER  VALLEY.  59 

it  is  too  cool  for  them.  At  noon  we  stopped  by  a 
fine  stream  of  water,  in  a  deep  gorge  of  the  moun- 
tains. In  the  afternoon  we  ascended  another  high 
range  of  mountains,  from  the  summits  of  which  we 
could  see  far  below  us  into  Bear  River  Valley. 
This  stream  is  as  large  as  the  Sweet  Water,  and 
courses  its  way  through  a  rich  and  beautiful  val- 
ley, from  three  to  six  miles  in  width.  We  en- 
camped in  the  valley  at  night  by  a  large  pond  of 
very  poor  water,  but  the  grass  was  excellent.  Dis- 
tance, twenty-two  miles. 

JUNE  22. 

Continued  down  the  valley  of  Bear  River.  In 
the  forenoon  we  passed  four  branches  of  the 
stream,  which  came  within  a  few  yards  of  each 
other.  Some  of  them  were  deep  and  all  difficult  to 
cross,  but  we  got  over  in  safety.  There  is  good 
grass  in  this  valley.  Four  miles  after  dinner 
brought  us  to  Smith's  Fork,  which  we  crossed  in 
safety,  though  we  had  to  raise  our  wagon-beds  in 
order  to  keep  them  dry.  Day  warm.  Thunder 
and  lightning,  but  no  rain.  The  river  makes  a 
sudden  bend  south,  and  the  trail  leaves  it  and  lies 
over  a  spur  of  the  mountains,  reaching  it  again  in 
about  eight  miles.  After  going  about  four  miles, 
we  came  to  a  long  and  difficult  hill.  In  the  valley 
east  of  it  is  a  stream,  which  empties  into  Bear  River 
within  sight.  Some  of  our  company  thought  we 
could  reach  the  river  by  sunset,  but  the  first  ascent 
being  set  at  nought,  their  calculations  were  wrong. 


60  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

It  was  nearly  sunset  by  the  time  we  reached  the 
summit,  and  here,  without  wood  or  water,  our  cat- 
tle being  tired,  and  one  having  fallen  dead  in  com- 
ing up,  we  determined  to  stop  for  the  night.  A 
party  of  us  returned  to  the  stream  for  water,  to 
make  coffee,  etc. — a  distance  of  about  two  miles. 
As  we  descended  the  mountain  the  mosquitoes  com- 
menced an  assault  upon  us  and  General  Taylor 
would  have  been  compelled  to  surrender  upon  this 
occasion.  I  never  before  saw  them  half  so  numer- 
ous or  so  bloodthirsty.  They  stung  my  hands  so 
much  that  they  were  soon  badly  swollen.  After 
fighting^  them  about  half  an  hour,  we  were  success- 
ful in  getting  back  with  a  few  quarts  of  water.  Dis- 
tance, twenty  miles. 

JUNE  23. 

This  morning  we  drove  four  miles  to  Bear  River 
and  stopped  for  the  day,  all  needing  rest.  A  fam- 
ily of  the  Snake  Indians  came  to  our  camp  and 
asked  for  sugar  and  powder.  They  were  dressed 
in  dirty  buckskin  and  looked  very  wretched.  We 
see  already  upon  the  road  numerous  stragglers, 
men  having  lost  their  teams  and  provisions,  and 
those  who  started  unprepared.  Our  speed  on  the 
road  has  been  much  better  than  we  expected.  For 
more  than  a  month  we  have  seen  the  same  com- 
panies, some  of  them  supplied  with  the  best  teams. 
Distance,  four  miles. 


SOUR  WATERS.  61 

JUNE  24. 

Started  early  this  morning,  all  in  good  spirits. 
Continued  down  the  valley  but  were  not  within  sev- 
eral miles  of  the  river  for  most  of  the  day,  and  did 
not  come  close  to  it  at  all,  though  we  crossed  a 
great  many  streams,  which  came  down  from  the 
range  of  mountains  on  our  right,  and  emptied  into 
Bear  River.  Though  we  had  crossed  many  streams 
during  the  day,  at  night  we  camped  not  less  than 
three  miles  from  it.  A  couple  of  our  men  went  to 
the  river  for  some  water,  and  when  they  returned 
they  declared  that  it  was  not  less  than  four  miles 
to  it.  It  appears  about  one  mile  and  a  half.  Road 
today  excellent.  The  wild  sage  which  covered 
most  of  the  country  from  Fort  Laramie  to  Green 
River  is  not  so  prolific  in  this  region,  but  a  great 
many  plants  spring  up  among  the  grass,  some  of 
which  bear  beautiful  blossoms.  Distance,  twenty- 
six  miles. 

JUNE  25. 

Went  two  miles  to  water  and  took  breakfast; 
about  eight  miles  farther  we  came  to  Cold  Springs. 
They  spring  up  out  of  the  plain  near  the  trail  and 
make  quite  a  respectable  stream.  The  water  is  re- 
markably cold  and  good.  Opposite  the  Cold 
Springs,  and  about  a  half  a  mile  to  the  right,  is 
another  natural  curiosity,  called  Beer  Springs. 
These  springs  are  so  called  from  the  fact  that  these 
springs  have  a  sour  taste,  somewhat  resembling 
beer.  It  springs  out  of  an  elevated,  light-colored 


62  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

rock,  which  I  suppose  was  caused  by  the  petrifica- 
tion  oi  certain  properties  in  the  water.  Upon  the 
center  of  the  elevation  are  several  sharp-pointed 
rocks,  from  which  the  water  rushes.  Several  of 
these  conical  rocks,  larger  than  the  rest,  are  now 
exhausted.  They  must  have  been  great  curiosities 
when  in  full  play.  Four  miles  further  on,  and 
within  two  yards  of  Bear  River,  are  Steamboat 
Springs.  The  water  of  these  springs,  which 
gushes  from  the  rocks  is  warm,  which  is  the  more 
remarkable  from  the  fact  of  its  being  so  close  to 
the  river.  Just  beyond  this  place  the  Bear  River 
bends  suddenly  round  the  mountains,  to  the  south, 
and  here  we  leave  it.  It  is  well  known  it  rises  in 
the  great  basin  and  empties  into  Salt  Lake.  A  lit- 
tle to  the  west  of  the  bend  is  the  old  crater,  so  called 
from  the  supposition  that  it  was  once  a  volcano,  the 
base  alone  remaining.  The  rocks  in  this  ruinous- 
looking  place  bear  the  marks  of  fire.  Opposite  to 
the  old  crater  the  road  branches  off  to  Fort  Hall, 
the  one  we  are  traveling  (Hedspeths  [?]  Cutoff), 
continuing  west.  Distance,  twenty  miles. 

JUNE  26. 

This  afternoon  we  crossed  the  vide  that  divides 
the  waters  of  the  Great  Basin  from  those  of  the 
Pacific.  This  we  know  from  the  fact  that  we 
crossed  a  branch  of  the  Pont  Neuf  River.  At 
night  we  encamped  by  the  Pont  Neuf.  It  is  from 
ten  to  fifteen  yards  wide,  and  deep.  We  saw  some 
Snake  Indians  today.  They  have  plenty  of  horses, 


MOSQUITOES  AND  BUFFALOES.  63 

which  they  offer  to  sell.  The  country  before  us 
appears  very  mountainous.  I  must  cut  today's  note 
short,  as  it  takes  both  hands  to  keep  off  the  mosqui- 
toes. Confound  the  mosquitoes!  Distance,  twenty 
miles. 

JUNE  27. 

Today  our  road  led  over  very  mountainous  coun- 
try. We  crossed  two  high  mountain  ranges,  with 
a  fine  stream  of  water  between  them.  In  advance 
of  us  our  path  was  filled  up  with  mountains,  one 
upon  another.  Snow  to  be  seen.  There  are  two 
classes  of  mountains  in  this  region,  the  largest  cov- 
ered with  snow  and  the  smaller  one  having  vegeta- 
tion and.  filling  up  the  space  between  the  others. 
Upon  the  peaks  of  some  of  the  highest  mountains 
is  a  stunted  growth  of  cedar,  which  gives  them 
rather  a  dark  appearance.  I  have  often  heard 
when  at  home  that  buffalo  did  not  abound  west  of 
the  south  pass,  but  I  have  seen  numerous  evidences 
in  the  shape  of  skulls  by  the  road ;  but  it  is  said  by 
the  Indians  that  there  are  not  at  this  time  any  buf- 
falo in  this  region,  nor  has  there  been  for  six  years 
past.  A  sufficient  cause  for  their  entire  disappear- 
ance in  this  region  I  cannot  fully  understand.  Dis- 
tance, sixteen  miles. 

TUNE  28. 

Most  excellent  road  today,  and  down  hill  all  the 
way,  except  a  circuitous  narrow  gorge  in  the  moun- 
tains of  about  four  miles  in  length,  which  we  went 


64  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

through  in  the  afternoon.  In  descending  the  west- 
ern slope  of  this  range  we  found  the  road  very 
steep,  though  we  came  down  in  safety.  At  the 
soda  springs  we  saw  an  old  man  who  called  himself 
Captain  Grant.  He  assured  us  that  one  half  of 
our  cattle  would  die  on  the  cut-off,  for  want  of 
grass,  and  also  that  the  road  was  almost  impass- 
ible and  no  nearer  than  that  by  Fort  Hall.  This 
statement  in  respect  to  grass  is  utterly  untrue,  and 
we  suspect  the  others  are  of  like  character.  Grass 
on  the  cut-off  is  first  rate — better  than  we  have  be- 
fore seen  on  the  road.  Wild  flax  abounds  in  this 
region,  though  not  in  abundance.  It  is  now  in  full 
bloom  and  looks  quite  like  a  flower  garden  in  some 
places.  We  stopped  by  a  little  stream  at  noon,  be- 
yond which  water  is  not  so  plenty  for  about  twenty 
miles.  There  are  willows  growing  along  this 
stream.  The  road  turns  south  after  we  cross  it. 
We  laid  here  until  three  o'clock  and  then  went  on 
about  eight  miles,  passing  over  a  range  of  low 
mountains,  and  encamped  at  night  in  the  valley. 
A  shower  of  rain  in  the  afternoon.  Distance, 
twenty  miles. 

JUNE  29. 

Went  down  the  valley  about  four  miles  to  where 
it  turned  west  over  the  mountains,  when  we  un- 
yoked the  cattle  and  drove  them  in  a  southeast  di- 
rection to  a  spring  of  water.  About  eight  miles 
more  brought  us  to  a  valley  in  which  were  several 
good  springs.  In  the  afternoon  went  eight  miles 


PRAIRIE  SQUIRRELS.  65 

and  found  another  spring  of  good  water.  Here  we 
took  in  water  for  the  night  and  encamped  just  be- 
yond, wher^  we  found  good  grass.  A  little  animal 
abounds  in  this  region  called  the  prairie  squirrel. 
It  is  a  little  smaller  than  the  common  black  squir- 
rel, and  gray  in  color.  We  see  hundreds  of  them 
every  day.  and  they  are  often  killed  with  clubs  and 
whips.  I  first  noticed  them  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort 
Laramie,  and  have  seen  them  every  day  since.  The 
Indians,  the  Snakes  principally,  shoot  them  and  use 
them  as  an  article  of  food.  Road  good,  weather 
pleasant.  Distance,  twenty  miles. 

JUNE  30. 

This  morning  we  continued  through  the  range  of 
mountains  which  we  entered  yesterday.  In  the 
forenoon  found  plenty  of  water,  passing  several 
springs,  and  at  length  came  to  a  mountain  stream, 
which  we  followed  down  the  valley.  At  noon  we 
stopped  opposite  to  a  spur  of  rock.  In  the  after- 
noon we  struck  out  across  the  valley  in  a  western 
direction.  After  crossing  the  stream  which  we  fol- 
lowed in  the  morning,  we  went  about  twelve  miles 
before  we  reached  water.  This  stream  was  but 
four  or  five  feet  wide,  but  deep  and  difficult  to 
cross.  In  this  valley  there  is  an  abundant  growth 
of  wild  sage  and  grease  wood,  but  not  much  grass. 
Distance,  twenty-seven  miles. 


66  TRIP  TO  CALIFORNIA. 

JULY  I. 

Went  four  miles  this  morning  and  came  to  what 
we  supposed  to  be  Raft  River.  It  is  about  six 
yards  wide  and  deep,  like  most  of  the  other  rivers 
in  the  mountains.  We  forded  it  and  went  up  its 
valley  about  one  mile  and  laid  by  till  about  4  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon,  when  we  proceeded  three  miles 
further  and  stopped  for  the  night,  the  grass  in 
which  a  heavy  swath  could  be  cut.  Just  after  we 
crossed  Raft  River  we  came  to  the  junction  of  the 
cut-off  with  the  Fort  Hall  road.  Those  with  whom 
we  have  spoken  about  the  road  represent  it  as  being 
further  and  the  worst  of  the  two.  On  that  road 
there  are  one  or  two  very  bad  streams  to  cross,  and 
also  a  mirey  district.  Distance,  eight  miles. 

JULY  2. 

Went  up  Raft  River  a  short  distance,  when  we 
crossed  .it  and  struck  out  in  a  southern  direction. 
We  went  up  a  gentle  slope  for  several  miles  and 
then  descended  into  a  wide  valley,  in  which  we 
crossed  several  streams  and  found  plenty  of  grass. 
By  one  of  these  brooks  we  stopped  at  noon.  In  the 
afternoon  we  proceeded,  and  after  going  three 
miles,  we  entered  the  mountains  again  and  went 
through  a  rugged  region  through  the  remainder  of 
the  day,  though  the  road  was  good  and  water 
plenty.  Towards  evening  we  came  to  the  junction 
of  the  Fort  Hall  and  Salt  Lake  roads,  about  nine- 
teen miles  from  where  it  crossed  Raft  River.  We 


FOURTH  OF  JULY.  67 

fell  in  with  some  emigrants  direct  from  Salt  Lake 
and  got  all  the  news  we  could.  Provisions  are  rep- 
resented as  being  very  high  there — flour  $1.00  per 
pound  and  other  things  in  proportion,  except  but- 
ter and  rriilk,  which  are  comparatively  cheap.  Dis- 
tance, twenty-one  miles. 

JULY  3. 

In  the  morning  we  went  up  Sleet  (?)  Creek, 
which  we  followed  a  mile  or  so  up  a  ravine,  and 
after  descending  the  other  side  of  the  mountain,  we 
reached  what  is  called  Goose  Creek,  a  distance  of 
about  ten  miles.  This  part  of  the  day's  drive  was 
bad.  In  the  afternoon  we  proceeded  up  Goose 
Creek  about  twelve  miles.  This  stream  is  about 
six  yarc's  wide  and  the  valley  is  narrow;  grass 
good.  Weather  hot.  Distance,  twenty-two  miles. 

JULY  4. 

The  Fourth  of  July !  What  a  glorious  day,  and 
how  honored  at  home,  but  to  the  travel-worn  emi- 
grant, in  the  eternal  wilds,  this  day's  remem- 
brances hardly  stir  the  sluggish  blood.  All  are 
rushing  to  the  gold  region,  and  few  stop  to  cele- 
brate the  Fourth  of  July.  We  drove  as  usual,  wild 
sage  and  dust  being  about  the  only  thing  in  the  eye. 
We  followed  up  Goose  Creek  and  a  tributary  for 
about  ten  miles,  when  we  struck  out  across  a  high, 
dry  country,  destitute  of  vegetation,  except  wild 
sage,  etc.  After  going  twelve  miles,  we  came  to 


68  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

Thousand  Spring  Valley,  and  going  down  it  a  lit- 
tle more  than  a  mile  we  found  water  and  tolerable 
grass,  where  we  stopped  for  the  night.  Day  hot! 
Distance,  twenty-three  miles. 

JULY  5. 

Continued  our  march  down  the  valley  for  ten 
miles,  when  we  turned  to  the  right,  and  on  going 
two  miles,  came  to  what  is  called  Dry  Creek.  In 
the  afternoon  we  followed  up  this  valley.  In  it 
there  is  the  channel  of  a  creek  in  which  there  is  a 
little  indifferent  water  in  holes.  A  little  farther  on 
we  noticed  more  water  in  the  creek,  and  presently 
we  saw  it  had  increased  to  a  stream.  About  ten 
miles  up  we  stopped  for  the  night,  where  we  found 
a  well  of  tolerable  water.  Grass  first  rate.  Dis- 
tance, twenty-two  miles. 

JULY  6. 

We  went  up  the  valley  this  morning  eight  miles 
and  crossed  the  stream  which  I  suppose  is  called 
Cold  Creek.  Five  miles  more  brought  us  to  the 
end  of  the  valley,  where  we  found  a  good  spring  of 
water.  In  the  afternoon  we  went  over  a  range  of 
mountains,  and  after  going  eight  miles,  came  to  an- 
other valley,  in  which  we  found  a  spring  and  good 
grass.  Weather  warm.  Distance,  twenty-one 
miles. 


HUMBOLDT  MOUNTAINS.  69 

*  JULY  7. 

Continued  down  the  valley  all  day,  except  a  few 
miles  over  a  point  of  land  running  into  a  bend  of 
the  river.  We  found  water  in  sloughs  along  the 
valley  and  at  night  came  to  a  stream  which  is  the 
head  waters  of  Mary's  or  Humboldt's  River.  The 
valley  is  here  broad  and  the  grass  good,  though  the 
soil  is  considerably  impregnated  with  alkali.  The 
weather  cool  and  cloudy,  with  heavy  rain  seen  fall- 
ing upon  the  mountains  in  the  afternoon.  We  be- 
gin to  think  that  we  have  gained  upon  the  great 
mass  of  emigrants,  as  we  have  not  seen  so  many 
in  the  last  few  days ;  but  this  is  owing  to  some  ex- 
tent by  some  having  stopped  at  Salt  Lake  to  recruit 
and  others  having  gone  by  Fort  Hall  to  Oregon. 
We  at  present  overtake  more  than  overtake  us. 
Distance,  twenty  miles. 

JULY  8. 

This  morning  we  reached  the  main  stream  of  the 
long  looked  for  Humboldt.  The  crossing  was  bad, 
the  water  being  deep  and  the  banks  steep,  though 
the  stream  is  but  about  eight  yards  wide.  The  val- 
ley opens  broad  and  affords  a  very  extensive  view 
of  the  country  in  advance  of  us.  On  our  right 
rise  the  Humboldt  Mountains,  whose  summits  are 
covered  with  snow.  The  last  rays  of  the  setting 
sun  are  now  lending  to  their  spotless  mantle  a 
warm,  rosy  glow.  One  by  one  the  lofty  peaks  lose 
their  transient  splendor,  and  outline  after  outline 
loses  its  distinctness  in  the  sombre  hues  of  evening. 


W  TRIP  TO   CALIFORNIA. 

No  timber  in  sight,  except  a  litth  underbrush  by 
the  river.  Today  we  passed  a  new-made  grave,  in 
which  sleeps  the  last  sleep  of  an  emigrant  who  was 
shot  a  few  days  ago  by  an  Indian,  while  on  guard. 
Indians  were  about  for  the  purpose  of  stealing 
horses  and  really  did  succeed  in  capturing  one  while 
the  mounted  guard  was  receiving  the  attention  of 
the  whole  company.  The  fatal  arrow  was  poisoned* 
This  murder  will  raise  great  animosity  against  the 
Indians  and  the  future  emigrant,  as  he  passes  by 
the  grave  of  his  murdered  countryman,  will  feel  a 
spirit  of  revenge.  The  Root  Diggers  infest  this 
region,  a  most  savage  and  degraded  tribe.  Dis- 
tance, twenty  miles. 

JULY  9. 

Continued  down  the  valley  this  morning  some 
seven  miles,  when  we  came  to  a  branch  of  the  river 
and  forded  it.  It  is  longer  than  the  first  we  came 
to,  though  better  to  ford.  At  noon  we  met  five 
men  who  had  their  team  of  six  horses  stolen  last 
night  by  the  Indians.  There  was  but  a  single  horse 
left  among  the  five,  and  being  unable  to  proceed 
with  their  effects,  they  were  waiting  for  some 
fortunate  opportunity.  We  put  their  provisions  in 
with  ours,  intending  to  assist  them  through  the 
journey,  giving  them  equal  advantages  with  our- 
selves. We  take  one  of  them  in  our  wagon.  This 
afternoon  they  found  a  written  notice  put  up  by  the 
way,  cautioning  emigrants  against  the  Indians,  and 
stating  that  some  twenty-five  horses  had  been 


HORSE  THIEVES.  71 

stolen  by  the  Indians  in  that  quarter  within  two  or 
three  days.  They  were  taken  in  the  night.  A 
mule  had  been  shot  and  a  man  captured  and  robbed. 
This  will  arouse  new  vigilance.  We  have  not  yet 
heard  of  any  cattle  being  stolen.  Distance,  twenty- 
two  miles. 

JULY  10. 

Nothing  of  note  today.  Continued  down  the 
valley  thirteen  miles  by  noon,  then  ascended  a 
mountain  and  took  a  very  circuitous  course  for  the 
remainder  of  the  day,  making  nine  miles  by  night. 
Distance,  twenty-two  miles. 

JULY  ii. 

Went  down  the  Humboldt  and  crossed  another 
Stream,  tributary  to  the  former.  After  crossing  it 
we  commenced  ascending  a  range  of  mountains  and 
continued  in  this  character  of  country  for  some  fif- 
teen or  eighteen  miles ;  but  little  water,  and  that  in 
springs  in  the  mountains.  At  night  we  reached  the 
Humboldt  again  after  having  been  from  it  some 
thirty-five  miles.  This  portion  of  the  road  is  new. 
The  usual  road  is  near  the  river,  but  could  not  be 
traveled  now  on  account  of  high  water.  The  face 
of  the  country  is  very  barren,  always  excepting 
wild  sage.  Our  road  is  very  dusty.  The  dust  is 
so  light  that  the  least  wind  raises  it,  though  it  does 
not  impede  the  wheels  of  the  wagons  but  little. 
Sometimes  the  dust  is  so  heavy  that  we  cannot  see 
the  wagon  immediately  ahead  of  us  in  the  train. 


72  TRIP  TO  CALIFORNIA. 

Quite  a  number  of  packers  pass  us  daily.  Provi- 
sions begin  to  get  scarce.  Constant  applications 
are  made.  Distance,  twenty-six  miles. 

JULY  12. 

Having  made  a  long  drive  yesterday,  we  rested 
today  till  noon.  As  we  started  we  turned  off  to 
the  right  and  reached  the  river  again  at  the  end  of 
eight  miles,  continued  along  it  a  mile  or  two, 
crossed  another  low  range  of  hills  about  two  miles 
across,  and  camped  for  the  night  by  the  Humboldt, 
a  short  distance  further  on.  Distance,  twelve 
miles. 

JULY  13. 

Continued  down  the  valley,  which  is  very  wide 
at  this  point.  Toward  night  we  entered  into  an- 
other bend  of  the  river,  running  across  by  north 
and  south.  The  general  surface  of  the  soil  here  is 
nearly  bare,  wild  sage,  greasewood  and  a  few 
stunted  weeds  being  the  only  vegetation.  The  soil 
is  light  in  color  and  weight,  and  walking  through 
it  is  like  walking  through  ashes  or  slacked  lime. 
Most  of  the  day  we  were  several  miles  from  the 
river  and  came  to  it  but  twice  during  the  day,  I 
never  saw  such  dense  clouds  of  dust  as  I  saw  here, 
and  it  is  more  disagreeable  on  account  of  being  im- 
pregnated with  alkali,  which  abounds  in  this  val- 
ley. The  sky  is  cloudless  and  the  sun  extremely 
warm.  We  have  traveled  so  long  among  the 
mountains,  and  all  bearing  the  same  general  ap- 


A  DESOLATE  PLAIN.  73 

pearance,  that  we  seem  to  be  stationary  instead  of 
changing  our  position  every  day.  In  looking 
around  me  I  seem  to  be  in  a  deep  blue  ocean  of  air, 
with  the  distant  mountains  around  as  the  shore. 
Distance,  twenty-three  miles.  * 

JULY  14. 

Went  on  this  morning  over  a  most  desolate  plain, 
with  scarcely  a  vestige  of  vegetation,  except  grease- 
wood.  We  traveled  fifteen  miles  before  we 
reached  the  river,  and  then  found  no  grass  on  the 
east  side ;  but  as  some  men  were  ferrying  grass 
across  in  a  wagon  bed,  we  procured  it  and  brought 
over  grass  for  our  cattle.  After  going  two  miles 
further  we  came  to  a  fork  in  the  road,  one  run- 
ning down  the  river  and  the  other  passing  over  a 
low  range  of  bluffs.  We  followed  the  latter  and 
came  to  the  river  again  in  about  two  miles.  Dis- 
tance, twenty  miles. 

JULY  15. 

This  niorning  we  went  on  eight  miles,  when  we 
came  to  the  river,  where  we  stopped  to  water.  Here 
we  found  quite  a  number  of  wagons  which  were 
slopped  in  consequence  of  a  report  that  they  were 
near  the  desert  and  at  the  place  where  it  was  neces- 
sary to  take  in  grass.  We  made  inquiries  and  ex- 
amined our  uncertain  guides,  which  tended  to  cor- 
roborate the  report.  The  indications  were  all 
affirmative,  but  the  distance  was  too  short.  Several 


74  TRIP  TO  CALIFORNIA. 

hundred  wagons  have  gone  directly  off  the  road 
eight  miles  to  procure  grass  for  their  stock  on  the 
desert,  and  finally  we  concluded  to  go  also,  and  be 
on  the  safe  side  at  any  rate.  In  the  afternoon  we 
traveled  to  the  grass  and  found  it  tolerably  good 
and  was  enabled  in  the  afternoon  to  cut  as  much 
as  we  could  conveniently  carry.  Day  hot.  Dis- 
tance, eight  miles. 

JULY  1 6. 

Up  and  off  early.  Came  to  the  river  again  some 
three  miles  below  where  we  left  it.  A  little  lower 
down  we  stopped  at  noon.  By  the  way,  one  of  our 
men  went  on  twelve  miles  yesterday  noon  to  see  if 
we  were  as  near  the  sink  as  was  supposed.  We 
found  the  appearance  of  the  river  unchanged  and 
concluded  that  the  sink  was  not  near.  However, 
we  determined  to  take  on  our  grass  and  use  it  when 
necessary.  In  the  afternoon  we  went  over  a  low 
range  of  hills  some  six  miles  in  distance,  then  we 
came  to  the  river,  and  soon  stopped  for  the  night, 
and  found  good  grass  after  a  good  deal  of  trouble 
in  getting  our  oxen  over  a  bad  slough.  Distance, 
twelve  miles. 

JULY  17. 

In  the  forenoon  we  were  thrown  off  our  main 
course  some  three  miles  by  having  to  go  round  a 
slough.  We  met  some  packers  from  California, 
who  informed  us  that  we  were  140  miles  from  the 
sink.  We  discredited  their  statement,  but  soon 


SCARCITY  OF  FOOD.  75 

after  came  to  some  emigrants  who  were  old  neigh- 
bors of  these  Californians  and  was  told  by  them 
that  confidence  might  be  placed  in  the  report.  This 
disappointment  came  extremely  hard  to  those  who 
were  nearly  out  of  provisions.  Some  are  already 
destitute  of  food  and  have  to  depend  on  the  liber- 
ality of  others.  Some  are  killing  their  work  cat- 
tle for  beef.  One  man  in  our  own  company  offered 
$10  for  five  pounds  of  flour  and  could  not  get  it. 
The  grass  and  water  in  this  region  are  poor. 
Weather  warm.  Distance,  eighteen  miles. 

JULY  1 8. 

There  being  but  little  grass  where  we  stopped 
last  night,  we  went  on  this  morning  before  break- 
fast about  five  miles.  Being  weary  of  the  journey 
and  wishing  to  proceed  as  fast  as  possible,  I  here 
sold  out  my  share  in  the  team,  and  in  company  with 
another  of  our  party  who  sold  out  his  team  also, 
proceeded  ahead  of  the  wagons,  carrying  our  pro- 
visions upon  a  pony,  going  in  company  with  six 
others  from  the  same  company,  who  set  out  in  con- 
sequence of  being  short  of  eatables.  Most  of  the 
day  we  kept  by  the  river,  but  just  at  night  happened 
to  get  upon  a  sand  plain  of  fifteen  miles,  without 
grass  or  water.  We  came  upon  this  distance  un- 
awares and  suffered  much  for  water.  About  9 
o'clock  we  reached  the  river  again,  greatly  fa- 
tigued. Distance,  thirty-five  miles. 


76  TRIP  TO  CALIFORNIA. 

JULY  19. 

Proceeded  down  the  river  and  went  round  a 
great  bend  to  the  north.  Grass  very  scarce.  Hot 
weather.  A  breeze  every  noon;  soil  very  light. 
Distance,  twenty-two  miles. 

JULY  20. 

Light  sand  plain.  River  bottom  narrow.  No 
grass.  Dead  animals.  Destruction  of  property. 
Distance,  twenty-two  miles. 

JULY  21. 

Fourteen  miles  to  good  spring — two  to  river — 
three  to  grass  for  the  desert.  Grass  plenty.  Beef 
tv.  enty-five  cents  per  pound.  One  hundred  wagons 
preparing.  Weather  hot.  Destitution  of  food 
among  the  emigrants.  Distance,  twenty-three 
miles. 

JULY  22. 

Started  early  for  the  sink.  Country  barren. 
Bad  water.  Distance,  twelve  miles. 

JULY  23  AND  24. 

Crossed  the  desert  forty  miles.  Eight  miles  to 
the  sink.  Went  upon  the  desert  at  4  o'clock  p.  M. 
Saw  many  dead  animals.  First  part  road  level 
and  good.  Moonlight  night.  Wagons  strewn 
along  the  road.  Latter  part  of  the  road  deep  sand. 


DIVERSITY  OF  COUNTRY.  77 

Reached  Carson  River  at  n  o'clock  A.  M.       Saw 
timber  for  the  first  time  in  several  hundred  miles. 

JULY  25. 

Went  up  river  twelve  miles,  then  from  it  for 
fifteen  miles  over  a  high  desert  country.  Valley  of 
river  narrow  and  well  timbered.  Distance,  twenty- 
seven  miles. 

JULY  26. 

Left  the  river  and  went  twenty-six  miles  before 
we  came  near  it  again.  Country  barren  and 
broken. 

JULY  27. 

Went  up  river  eight  miles,  then  left  it  for 
twelve.  Road  mountainous,  with  a  little  cedar. 
Distance,  twenty  miles. 

JULY  28. 

By  river  one  mile,  from  it  five,  then  up  the  val- 
ley remainder  of  the  day.  Valley  wide — numerous 
mountain  streams,  fine  grass  and  fine  flowers.  A 
high  mountain  on  our  right.  Snow  on  some  of  the 
peaks.  Nights  cool.  Past  trading  post.  Provi- 
sions from  a  dollar  to  two  dollars  per  pound.  Pack- 
ers and  foot  men  rushing  for  the  diggings.  Dis- 
tance, twenty-one  miles. 


78  TRIP  TO  CALIFORNIA. 

JULY  29. 

Up  the  valley  twelve  miles,  then  through  a  can- 
yon six,  then  in  camp  two  miles  beyond;  canyon 
rocky  and  ascending  and  full  of  timber.  High 
mountains  all  around  us.  Distance,  twenty  miles. 

JULY  30. 

To  dividing  range  of  mountains,  with  Red  Lake 
at  foot,  five  miles.  Over  this  range  and  down  to 
another  lake,  six  miles.  Over  Snow  Mountain  to 
Rock  Valley,  ten  miles.  (Through  snow  two 
miles.)  Road  over  continual  rocks;  snow  in  places, 
and  timber.  Cool  day  and  freezing  at  night.  On 
the  mountain,  amid  the  melting  snows,  were 
flowers  of  the  most  brilliant  colors,  and  the  road 
passed  for  many  miles  among  gigantic  pines.  Dis- 
tance, twenty-one  miles. 

JULY  31. 

Went  fifteen  miles  to  Leak  [Leap  (?)]  Spring 
Valley.  Country  mountainous  and  well  timbered. 

AUGUST  i. 

Went  seventeen  miles  to  the  junction  of  the 
Weaver  and  Hangtown  roads.  No  grass  and  but 
little  water  on  the  road  in  this  distance.  Road  bad. 


LIKE  CALIFORNIA.  79 

AUGUST  2. 

Went  seventeen  miles  to  Pleasant  Valley,  in  the 
vicinity  of  Ringgold  and  Weaver.  Here  the  coun- 
try begins  to  look  like  California — canvas  houses, 
hot  weather,  dry,  reddish  soil.  This  day's  travel  I 
consider  the  conclusion  of  a  journey,  a  longer  or 
more  tedious  than  which  is  not  often  performed  on 
this  earth. 

"The  heart  rebounds  with  long  forgotten  fleet- 
ness"  at  the  thought  of  having  performed  it.  The 
interminable  wastes  are  passed  over,  the  wilderness 
of  wild  sage  and  ashes  is  behind  me,  and  climbing 
a  hundred  mountains  will  no  longer  tire  my  feet. 
This  act  is  ended,  and  now  for  a  struggle  for  gold 
and  then 

"Oh!  for  a  falcon's  wing  to  bear, 
To  bear  me  to  my  home." 

NOTE. 

The  distances  in  the  foregoing  journal  are  probably  inac- 
curate, as  we  had  no  means  to  measure  them,  and  depended 
entirely  on  our  own  judgment.  In  reading  it  over,  I  have 
noticed  many  typographical  and  grammatical  errors,  but  these 
will  be  excused  when  it  is  recollected  that  it  s^as  written  for 
the  most  part  in  haste  and  at  different  times. 

0.  W.  S. 

THE  END. 


